Newport Pembrokeshire has a thriving high street and gorgeous scenery (Image: John Myers)
A small and “hidden” Welsh village has been put firmly on the map as it has “the best pub in the world.” Nestled under the imposing presence of Carningli mountain in West Wales lies the picturesque village of Newport Pembrokeshire, radiating a “hippy spirit” and offering “everything you could possibly want”.
This Pembrokeshire National Park treasure not only boasts breathtaking scenery with its mountains, estuary, and twin beaches but also a bustling high street.
Often compared to Tenby on the north coast, Newport is seen as more exclusive and tranquil. It attracts a certain type of person, from those looking to put down roots to those seeking a holiday retreat.
“Newport hasn’t deviated too far from its roots,” says Ed Sykes, owner of the Llys Meddyg hotel and restaurant in the village.
The charm of Newport extends beyond its quaint stone-built fisherman’s cottages and an eclectic array of shops, cafes, and pubs; it’s also about the setting.
The enigmatic Preseli mountains tower over Newport to the north, often cloaked in mist that dances around the summits like a delicate chiffon scarf, reports Wales Online.
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Newport Pembrokeshire the lovely Welsh village off the beaten track in an ancient port with the ‘best pub in the world’ (Image: John Myers)
The hills are adorned with ancient woodlands and stone circles, a location rich in centuries-old ceremonies and celebrations that continue to inspire artists and artisans today. According to local folklore, spending a night on Carningli mountain will either turn you into a poet or drive you mad.
This is where sand artist Rachel Shiamh seeks inspiration and it marks the peak of the Gwaun Valley, a “land that time forgot” and the birthplace of the thriving Bluestone Brewery.
“Everything you could possibly want, it’s all here,” Ed declared. “The estuary, the mountains, the beach, mythical stones, artisan producers – it boasts a wonderful diversity.”
A picturesque harbour entices visitors – but not in their droves – making this place an ideal staycation option (Image: John Myers)
“It’s a creative community with a hippy spirit,” Ed further commented. In addition to his hotel and restaurant, Ed has introduced guided e-mountain biking and he is excited about the boundless opportunities offered by Newport and beyond.
From the gnarled and twisted oaks at Ty Canol, a woodland dating back 6,000 years, to the Neolithic Pentre Ifan burial chamber from 3,500BC, there is plenty for the adventurous and curious.
Ed, who grew up on a farm in nearby Letterston, took over Llys Meddyg two decades ago. He has “lots of little things going on” including a smokery, a wine shop, cellar bar and secret garden, a hidden gem behind the main building where guests can savour evening meals.
“You have to adopt more ideas to make it more interesting,” he said. “It’s about making sure people maintain their identity, it’s about the human experience. You allow people to be themselves. It’s about giving them an authentic experience. It’s not a rehearsal, it’s not a script, it’s about allowing people to express themselves.”
The village is steeped in history and quaint independent shops (Image: John Myers)
The quaint village, bisected by the bustling A487 road leading to Fishguard port, presents two contrasting faces: the commercial hub encircling the castle and church at its heart, and the original seafaring quarter nestled along the Parrog. This idyllic spot is steeped in history, having been established around the ancient harbour at the Nevern river’s estuary.
The area’s legacy dates back to the Middle Stone Age when inhabitants shaped flint on the Nevern’s banks for hunting and fishing tools. Its subsequent moniker, Trefdraeth meaning town or place on the sand/shore still graces the village today.
Following the Norman invasion of what was then northern Dyfed, the Marcher Lords initially governed from Nevern Castle before shifting to Newport Castle in 1197. In modern times, Newport Castle stands as a private residence, integrating the old castle walls that loom over the village, commanding views across the bay and towards the Irish Sea.
The original quay, established around 1566, was a bustling hub of trade with Bristol, north Wales and Ireland. It’s known that forty ships traded from Newport before 1875.
At high tide, ships would dock at the quay walls, while at low tide, they unloaded onto the beach, either into horse-drawn carts or directly onto the sand for later collection.
These vessels brought in coal, bricks, timber, wine, salt and guano, as well as limestone, and exported anthracite, slates, herrings, agricultural products and wool. In the 1900s, the Parrog remained a working harbour, with large vessels arriving at high tide.
Today, the Parrog is a more refined location, boasting a yacht club and moorings for sailboats. It also serves as the summer base for Pasta a Mano, where Welsh-Italian Derw Robertson-Jacobs offers homemade pasta from a compact trailer.
Remnants of its history are still visible, including parts of the old quay walls and two former lime kilns. It’s undoubtedly the best spot in the west to witness a sunset, with the dark sands of Newport beach mirroring the vibrant colours in the sky and Dinas Island creating dramatic silhouettes of the headland. At low tide, it’s possible to wade across the estuary to Newport beach, otherwise, it’s a three-mile drive past the golf course on the other side.
But with free parking, toilets and the charming Caffi Mawr, it’s worth the detour.
