Brazil has always existed as a sort of mythical place in my head. It’s a staggering landscape that’s home to the Amazon Rainforest and beaches that Grammy-winning songs have been written about. There’s no denying there’s something special about the South American country. It’s also a good 11-hour flight to Brazil from London, meaning it’s not necessarily somewhere you can just pop over to, which is why I decided to spend three weeks there earlier this year.
While I was actually in Rio de Janeiro for the annual Carnival celebrations, which is also the biggest carnival in the world, a trip to Brazil’s former capital city isn’t complete without some time spent on the beach. In fact, with approximately 83 kilometres of beach coastline and 99 beaches available to plonk yourself down on for some sand and sea, swimsuits and flip flops are practically mandatory attire in the city. You quickly learn that going to the beach isn’t simply an activity, it’s a way of life for many of Rio’s local residents.
There was one beach that stuck out in my mind ahead of my trip to Brazil — Ipanema Beach. Sung about in the second-most recorded pop song in history, “The Girl from Ipanema”, it was originally recorded by Brazilian singer Astrud Gilberto and has been covered by the likes of Frank Sinatra, Eartha Kitt and Amy Winehouse in the years since.
It also made it onto TripAdvisor’s “Best of the Best Beaches” for 2025, an award that recognises beaches that receive a high volume of “above-and-beyond” reviews on the travel website.
So it’s safe to say I had high expectations of this majestic beach that musicians and visitors alike have praised. I pictured myself on an endless expanse of white sand overlooking the South Atlantic’s blue waters with the iconic Two Brothers Mountains in the background.
But as with most things, it’s never quite the same in person as you might have pictured in your head. Considering I was visiting Rio during Carnival, which attracts an estimated two million visitors, the beach was absolutely packed with hardly any free space.
Perhaps I’ve been spoiled for choice with Europe’s more bathing options, and it wasn’t quite the tranquil experience I associate with being on the beach, but seeing how the city gathers on Ipanema was undeniably surreal.
The city spills onto the shores, with vendors selling everything from swimsuits to food and chairs to lounge on, meaning you barely have to lift a finger.
While it might not be your typical beach experience, it feels like a true reflection of the city. Games of volleyball, outdoors gyms and beach bars full of partygoers all exist along one stretch of sand, all happening at the same time, and even a few hours spent on Ipanema feels like a visit to another world in itself.
Visiting Rio during Carnival was never going to be a relaxing experience, no matter how close I was to a beach, but watching the sunset as the celebrations spilled out onto the sand was unforgettable.