The capital of the French Riviera, Nice receives an estimated five million visitors a year in search of a charming seaside break, and a few years ago I was one of them. While I’ve visited a few times since, I have to admit that I wasn’t totally enamoured on my first trip to the city, which led me to discover one of the best beaches I’ve ever seen.
A luxurious reputation that’s drawn in crowds of artists and the aristocracy alike for decades, from Matisse to Queen Victoria. While the city certainly has a charm to it, like most places in Europe, it’s expensive and packed with tourists during the summer. But after doing some research, I found that I could get a train for just 15 minutes to another town with its own beach. Often described as the Jewel of the French Riviera, while I wasn’t necessarily captivated by Nice, I’ve been desperate to go back to Villefranche-sur-Mer ever since I stepped off the train.
One thing I will give props to Nice for is its picturesque beach, and while the pebbly shores aren’t for everyone, I actually didn’t mind this. Plus, it beats finding sand all over the place for weeks after your trip.
Stretching on for 10km, finding a spot to sunbathe was never a problem, but the beach at Villefranche-sur-Mer was even more serene, and it’s no surprise it’s known as one of the region’s most beautiful towns.
Protected by plunging cliffs complete with pastel-coloured houses overlooking the turquoise sea, walking out of the train station and taking in the beach felt like the very definition of a picture-perfect moment.
Made up of coarse sand and small pebbles, it was also a little softer than lying on the beach in Nice. Despite being peak season and full of fellow beach goers, the pretty cove that’s actually called Plage des Marinières didn’t feel overwhelmingly busy at all.
In fact, the town is home to around 5,000 permanent residents, and it certainly has a laid-back feel. Even the water was incredibly calm.
Pretty cafes and restaurants line the promenade, and while I’d packed my own food as I was travelling on a budget, which, believe it or not, is possible in the glitzy south of France, it means getting something to eat and drink isn’t an inconvenience if you’re planning a day trip.
Although I only stayed for a day, it’s definitely worth an overnight stay or even a few days, especially if you’re looking for somewhere slightly less busy than Nice.
It’s also easy to get around if you don’t mind stairs, and on her blog Bon Traveler, Jessica Wright said: “The beauty of Villefranche-sur-Mer is that it is a very pedestrian-friendly village. Most of the town is pedestrian-only, with lots of stairs to get up and down, so be prepared.”
Getting the train is incredibly simple, and while I can’t remember the exact price I paid when I visited, a quick look on Trainline showed a one-way ticket for just £3.
One word of warning, though — in all my travels to various beaches since, I’ve yet to find one as pretty as Villefranche-sur-Mer.
In fact, I’d go as far as to say that the south of France is home to some of the prettiest beaches in the world, and while it’s known as a glamorous destination, it’s definitely doable on a budget if you’re simply looking for a laid-back beach holiday.