For an epic Sunday Lunch, head to The Crown for generous portions of meat and veg and a Yorkie (Image: Portia Jones)
As I navigated the rolling hills of mid Wales, the scenery began to subtly transform. The narrow, single-track roads meandered through steep valleys, skirting dense forests and crossing over ancient stone bridges that straddled swift streams.
After journeying past farmlands and small clusters of homes, I soon found myself in Rhayader, the first town on the River Wye.
Rhayader, with its stunning dams and reservoirs in the Elan and Claerwen Valleys, is an underrated market town that serves as a perfect base for biking, hiking and wildlife spotting in a relatively unknown part of the UK that’s a match for the Lake District. It has retained its agricultural heritage and remains a vital hub for the farming community, boasting a bustling livestock market that caters to a vast rural area.
Historically, Rhayader has been a central point in mid Wales for weary travellers, serving as a staging post for drovers and those journeying the lengthy route from London to Aberystwyth.
Today, it’s recognised as the gateway to the Elan Valley, situated just outside the expansive estate. With a host of independent shops, cafés, and pubs, it’s a convenient base and proudly brands itself as the ‘outdoors capital of Wales’, reports WalesOnline.
This spot is undoubtedly one of my favourite Welsh destinations for an exhilarating bike ride followed by a hearty Sunday lunch at one of the many local pubs. Here’s how to make the most of a visit to Rhayader.
There are loads of great food and drink options in Rhayader (Image: Portia Jones)
Shopping
The main street houses a compact shopping district where you can peruse a variety of antiques, local crafts, prints, pottery, upcycled clothing and regional souvenirs.
Hafod Hardware, a unique shopping destination in the area, is a vintage, family-owned hardware shop that has been serving customers since 1895.
In addition to standard DIY tools and kitchenware, you can also find retro tourism prints of Wales, custom-made Elan Valley mugs, and chocolate bars.
Quillies is another must-visit spot, renowned for its exquisite locally-produced crafts including pottery, textiles, jewellery, and fused glass.
For a comprehensive retail experience, head over to the family-operated No8 Clothing. Here, you’ll discover a wide range of men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing, accessories, and gifts.
The store spans two floors and stocks popular brands such as Joules, Brakeburn, Seasalt, Soya Concept, Mistral, Joe Browns, Wrangler, Pachamama, Jellycat, and Powder.
These handsome red-brick converted townhouses are perfect for groups of friends or families travelling together (Image: Portia Jones)
River Wood holds the distinction of being the UK’s only gallery-bookshop dedicated exclusively to wildlife and wild places. It’s brimming with original paintings, prints, cards, and books.
The upper floor houses a working artist’s studio and a space for creative workshops.
For outdoor enthusiasts, Hill Walking provides a good selection of clothing, boots, and accessories from brands like Urban Road, Game, Regatta, Trespass, and Craghoppers, all designed to withstand Wales’ unpredictable weather conditions.
Explore the dams
Rhayader serves as the entrance to the stunning Elan Valley, home to the estate’s Victorian dams nestled amidst rolling green hills. Constructed over a century ago to quench the thirst of an increasingly urbanised Birmingham, these unique gravity dams attract photographers from far and wide, eager to capture the dramatic waterfalls.
The tale of the Elan Valley originates in the late 19th century when Birmingham, a bustling city at the peak of the industrial revolution, was expanding rapidly.
In need of a reliable and clean water source, engineers turned their attention to the remote Elan Valley after extensive exploration. The valley, with its high rainfall and steep, narrow terrain, was the ideal site for a series of reservoirs.
If you’re after a cycling route that’s easy-going and packed with jaw-dropping views, the Elan Valley trail should definitely be on your biking bucket list (Image: Portia Jones)
One of the highlights of this ride has to be the Elan Valley Visitor Centre (Image: Portia Jones)
In 1892, one of the era’s most ambitious water supply projects commenced. Over 3,000 workers were employed to construct dams, reservoirs, and aqueducts manually, aided by steam-powered machinery.
By the project’s completion in 1904, the Elan Valley had undergone a remarkable transformation.
Four primary dams were erected – Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg, and Craig Goch. Each dam is a testament to engineering prowess, constructed from local stone and designed to integrate seamlessly into the surrounding landscape.
For instance, the Caban Coch Dam, viewed from afar, resembles a natural cliff face. However, up close, its immense size and the sound of water tumbling over its edge are truly breathtaking.
The reservoirs themselves, vast and deep bodies of water, mirror the surrounding hills and sky, creating an idyllic setting.
A map of the estate can be obtained from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, where staff are also on hand to recommend picturesque routes to view the dams.
The optimal time for a leisurely drive around the estate is following heavy rainfall (a common occurrence in Wales), when the reservoir water cascades over the steep, ‘Birmingham Baroque’-style structures.
If you’re driving, the Elan Valley is just off the A470 (Image: Portia Jones)
Fancy being shown around by a local expert? You can arrange a custom tour of the Elan Valley and the Cambrian Mountains area with Cambrian Safaris, discovering all the hidden nooks with a knowledgeable guide.
Cycle the Elan Valley trail
One of the finest ways to explore Elan Valley is by ambling or cycling along the Elan Valley Trail. This 13-mile (21km) path traces the route of the old railway that transported materials to the valley during the dam’s construction.
Today, a well-kept trail meanders through some of the valley’s most scenic spots.
Beginning in the quaint village of Cwmdeuddwr, just west of Rhayader, you’ll follow the old Birmingham Corporation Railway line, perfectly situated to showcase Elan’s best Victorian dams.
The linear trail is predominantly flat, save for a few inclines, with several tarmacked sections making it suitable for cyclists of all skill levels, including older children.
Rhayader is a great base for exploring the Elan Valley (Image: Portia Jones)
And for those seeking a bit of assistance on their journey, E-bikes are available for hire in Rhayader – after all, there’s no rule against exploring the valley with a touch of flair.
If you’re not bringing your own bike, make a pit stop at the market town of Rhayader to rent either traditional push bikes or E-bikes from Neil’s Wheels or Clive Powell Mountain Bikes. The trail typically takes around three hours to complete, so hiring a bike for half a day should provide ample time for photo opportunities and coffee breaks.
The route ascends 165ft from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, passing by the awe-inspiring Caban Coch and Garreg Ddu reservoirs. When full, millions of gallons of water tumble over the historic 120ft-high dam walls of Cabin Coch – a sight worth capturing on camera.
Look for wildlife
Rhayader is conveniently located near the wildlife-rich Elan Valley, where red kites can often be seen soaring above the town.
The nearby Elan Estate is owned by Dŵr Cymru Welsh Water, although a significant portion falls under the stewardship of the Elan Valley Trust. While its primary function is to supply clean water, the estate also serves as a meticulously managed beauty spot for visitors.
Over 80% of the valley has been designated a site of special scientific interest (SSSI), teeming with diverse wildlife and stunning landscapes.
Owing to its varied habitats and meticulous conservation efforts, the Elan Valley serves as a sanctuary for an array of wildlife. The valley’s forests, moorlands, and wetlands offer diverse environments that support a multitude of species, including birds, mammals, insects, and plants.
Bird enthusiasts will be delighted by the rich variety of species residing here. The reservoirs draw in waterfowl such as tufted ducks, great crested grebes, and goosanders, while the encompassing woodlands are a haven for woodpeckers and nuthatches.
The expansive moorland acts as a hunting territory for birds of prey, with red kites, buzzards, and occasionally peregrine falcons seen soaring majestically overhead.
For a more intimate encounter with the resident red kites, make your way to Gigrin Farm, renowned for its red kite feeding sessions. Situated half a mile from Rhayader, this location attracts hundreds of red kites, making it the prime spot in the UK to observe and photograph these magnificent birds, including the rare leucistic red kites.
Small-scale cattle farming also plays a vital role in the Elan Valley. Today, only a few farms continue this tradition.
Keep a lookout and you’ll spot cattle grazing leisurely on the open hills and within some enclosed habitats.
The flora of the Elan Valley is equally impressive. Dense forests house ancient oaks, while the moorlands are blanketed in a tapestry of heather, bilberry, and mosses. Come spring and summer, the valley’s meadows come alive with wildflowers, injecting vibrant hues into the landscape.
Gift shops sell locally made crafts, including pottery, textiles, jewellery, and fused glass (Image: Portia Jones)
Try stargazing
Did you realise that Rhyader and the Elan Valley boast some of the world’s darkest, clearest and least polluted skies?
With its 45,000 acres of safeguarded land, the Elan Valley has been at the forefront of this movement since it was awarded International Dark Sky Park status in 2015, becoming the first privately-owned yet publicly-accessible park globally to achieve this.
This prestigious recognition ensures protection against light pollution for the Elan Valley, whilst also providing a safe haven for the rich array of wildlife and natural beauty found within the estate.
Since being designated a dark sky area, the Elan Valley is now acknowledged as one of the premier stargazing destinations worldwide, featuring prominently in numerous stargazing guides, discussions, and books.
But what does this mean for stargazers?
Simply put, it equates to minimal light pollution and crystal-clear skies, enabling views of the Milky Way, meteor showers, and even the faint luminescence of neighbouring galaxies with the naked eye.
The valley’s secluded location and conscientious conservation efforts make it an exceptional choice for those seeking a profound connection with the universe.
Here, you’ll discover several prime spots for stargazing. Each provides a unique perspective on the night sky, catering to casual observers and passionate astrophotographers alike.
Remember to bring a red-light torch to maintain your night vision and allow your eyes 20 minutes to adapt to the darkness for the full experience.
For a more immersive experience, keep an eye out for organised stargazing events in the area to connect with the cosmos or try your hand at astrophotography.
The Elan Valley Trust and Dark Sky Wales regularly host guided tours and workshops, providing expert insights and access to telescopes.
For dark sky events, check out the Elan Valley’s What’s On webpage, Facebook (ElanValley), and Instagram (@elanvalley).
One of the best ways to explore Elan Valley is by strolling or cycling along the Elan Valley Trail (Image: Portia Jones)
Eating and drinking in Rhayader
Pop into The Lost ARC for lunch and coffee in this quirky community café. Be sure to try my favourite – a delicious Welsh rarebit consisting of toasted bread covered in warm, mature cheddar, Welsh ale, and a hint of laverbread and mustard.
They also offer coffee, cakes, light lunches, and a wide selection of vegan options.
By evening, this trendy venue morphs into a live music spot, showcasing up-and-coming acts and hosting popular pizza nights.
The Old Swan Tea Rooms is a traditional family-run tea room and cake shop, offering a delightful setting for homemade pasties, cakes, and lunches. Give their incredibly tasty chicken curry, made from a family recipe, a go.
For a hearty Sunday lunch, make your way to The Crown for generous helpings of meat and veg, topped off with a Yorkshire pudding. This is Sunday lunch as Mam used to make it – no-nonsense, satisfying, and drenched in gravy.
You certainly won’t leave feeling peckish.
For a cosy pub experience, the Historic Triangle is a must-visit. This charming 16th-century drover’s inn, nestled in Cwmdauddwr just a short walk away, offers a warm fire, authentic cask ales on tap, and a menu of homemade food featuring several pub favourites.
Another excellent spot for ale enthusiasts is the Lamb and Flag, known for its traditional bar meals and Sunday carveries. The vibrant green Elan Hotel also boasts a commendable selection of beverages at their bar.
Where to stay
Mid Wales Holiday Lets
These affordable holiday lets can accommodate up to 44 guests across Glandwr House, Afonwy House, The Old Drapers, The Bakehouse, and The Cwtch.
The striking red-brick converted townhouses are ideal for groups of friends or families visiting the Elan Valley area together.
They’re also well-suited for cyclists, providing secure bike storage to ensure your equipment remains safe.
After a day spent exploring the trails, you can relax in the outdoor hot tub, perfect for easing those tired muscles.
Ty Morgans
For a central stay in Rhayader, consider Ty Morgans. This historic townhouse seamlessly blends traditional charm with contemporary style.
This boutique and reasonably priced accommodation is located at the crossroads of Rhayader, making it an excellent base for exploring both the town and the wider Elan Valley area.
Gigrin Farm Red Kite Feeding Centre near Rhayader (Image: Gigrin Farm)
Thoughtfully designed, it retains original features such as oak beams and stone fireplaces, while offering all the modern conveniences you’d expect, including en suite bathrooms.
Ty Morgans also boasts an in-house bar and restaurant, offering guests a range of dining options from hearty Welsh breakfasts to evening meals. Its central location ensures you’re merely a brief walk away from local shops, pubs, and the Riverside Walk.
Elan Valley Hotel
Situated a short drive from the Elan Valley, the Elan Valley Hotel is a prime choice for those seeking a boutique hotel experience that marries comfort with convenience.
Guests can expect well-furnished rooms boasting stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Each room prioritises comfort, featuring plush beds and contemporary amenities.
The hotel’s restaurant has earned a reputation for its outstanding menu, which utilises locally-sourced ingredients to deliver a truly authentic Welsh culinary experience.
One of the more unique shopping options here is Hafod Hardware, a retro, family-run hardware store that has been open since 1895. (Image: Portia Jones)
It serves as the perfect base for easy access to the numerous trails and reservoirs of the Elan Valley, all while indulging in a touch of luxury.
Getting to Rhayader
Rhayader, known as the gateway to the Elan Valley, is easily reachable from various locations across Wales and England.
By car: If travelling by car, Rhayader is well-connected via the A470 and A44, making it a picturesque drive from cities such as Cardiff (roughly two and a half hours), Birmingham (just over two hours), or Shrewsbury (approximately 90 minutes). The roads leading into mid Wales meander through charming countryside, so do allow extra time for slower rural routes and photo opportunities.
By public transport: You can also reach the area by train and bus, although services are somewhat limited due to its rural location. The closest railway station is in Llandrindod Wells, approximately 12 miles away, with connections provided by Transport for Wales.
From there, a local bus service can take you to Rhayader. For further details and timetables, consult Traveline Cymru or utilise transport apps to assist in planning your journey.