Tiny UK market town with ‘bags of character’ and great cosy pub | UK | Travel

There’s nothing better than a good market town, particularly one brimming with character and history, and traditional pubs where you can buy a round without breaking the bank. One such place that’s worth visiting this autumn is an underrated gem in Carmarthenshire, situated on the River Tywi.

Llandovery may not be a name you’re familiar with, but it boasts ancient Roman ruins, a rich heritage, unique shops, and a railway line that weaves through rugged landscapes. It serves as a sturdy base for a rural adventure, especially if you’re a fan of history, long strolls, and a delightful pub meal. Often overshadowed by its more glamorous, Instagram-ready neighbour, Llandeilo, Llandovery is more of a slow burn.

Long before it became a bustling market town, Llandovery played a strategic role in the Roman conquest of Wales, a fact often overlooked even by history fans, Wales Online reports.

As noted by Cadw, the Romans arrived in Britain in AD 43 under the leadership of Governor Aulus Plautius, marking the end of what is referred to as prehistory.

They swiftly advanced through southern England but were halted upon reaching the challenging terrain and hostile native Celtic tribes of Wales.

It took them another quarter-century to subdue this formidable combination of rugged landscape and fierce tribal resistance. However, unlike the extensively Romanised regions of southern and eastern Britain, Wales was never fully conquered.

Despite being only a partial conquest, it left Wales with some of Britain’s most impressive and significant Roman sites. The Romans were the first to build here, establishing the fort of Alabum around AD 50–60 at nearby Llanfair Hill.

It’s clear to see the town takes a lot of pride in its history, with plaques, local books and walking routes paying tribute to the past.

Visiting on a market day provides a real sense of how trade and community remain integral to Llandovery’s identity. The town centre is easy to explore, and brimming with independent shops.

One of the main attractions here are the picturesque railways. Llandovery sits on the Heart of Wales railway line, amongst the most beautiful train journeys in Britain.

The route weaves through green hills, sheep-scattered meadows, and tranquil stations.

Featured alongside excursions such as the La Dolce Vita Orient Express and the Norient Express, National Geographic declared the Heart of Wales Line amongst the finest train journeys globally.

Cyclists will be happy to learn that Transport for Wales has introduced the first of six revamped cycle travel trains on the Heart of Wales Line this year. These trains can accommodate up to 12 bicycles or e-bikes, and the cycle carriages have 108 seats and space for 12 bikes.

When it comes to food in Llandovery, you’ll find a variety of pubs and cafes. The West End Café is a local favourite, offering generous portions, friendly service, and a meeting place for bikers and walkers to exchange tips over their morning fry-ups.

For those with a sweet tooth, La Patisserie on the high street boasts a steady flow of loyal customers. Choose from fresh bread, pies and sweet treats for your picnic, or grab a coffee and enjoy some people-watching from the outdoor bench.

You can also treat yourself to some seasonal dishes crafted from fresh local ingredients at the historic Castle Hotel. Here, you’ll discover a traditional pub, a cosy log fire, and a menu brimming with classic British dishes such as beer-battered fish and chips, chicken curry, rump steaks, and burgers.

Local produce includes Welsh Black Beef, Towy River Salmon, and Welsh cask ales.

The stunning Llyn y Fan Fach Lake, located 12km southeast of Llandovery, near the village of Llanddeusant, is also a must-visit.

To reach the spot, you’ll need to embark on an uphill hike alongside a river, through remote ground that doesn’t really have any facilities on the way. However, the effort is well worth it as you’ll be rewarded with amazing panoramic views of the Brecon Beacons.

Another top attraction less than half an hour’s drive from town are the Dolaucothi Gold Mines, a unique National Trust site. These mines were exploited by the Romans and later the Victorians, and you can still venture underground on a guided tour.

Llyn Brianne Dam and Reservoir, located near Llandovery, is another popular spot with its massive spillway leading to the River Tywi. Standing tall at 300 ft (91 m), it holds the title of the UK’s highest dam, offering amazing hiking and biking opportunities around the reservoir.

Visitors can wander around the dam and reservoir, or pack a picnic and capture stunning photos from the viewing points as water races down the spillway. As a renowned stargazing spot in the Cambrian Mountains, it’s also an excellent location for astrophotography.

For those looking for a biking challenge, the Llyn Brianne route offers 58 miles of cycling through the wild, sparsely populated Welsh landscapes.

Remote single-track mountain lanes surround the reservoir, perfect for short section hikes or bike rides.

One popular walk in this area takes you over the dam and around the side of the Llyn Brianne reservoir, offering picturesque water views. A pretty country lane runs along the eastern side of the reservoir, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding area.

The journey begins from the car park at the southern tip of the water, following a track through the Tywi Forest and ending at the bridge at the northern end of the reservoir.