Wells is small, but has plenty to offer (Image: Julian Elliott Photography via Getty Images)
Tucked away in the West Country lies one of England’s most charming and smallest cities, where visitors can browse local markets, savour cider in cosy pubs and wander through the breathtaking grounds of its magnificent cathedral.
Situated on the southern edge of the Mendip Hills, Wells has been named the best small city to visit by readers of Which? magazine, who gave it five stars for ease of getting around, attractiveness, attractions, cultural sights, accommodation and value for money.
“Wells, just below Bath in Somerset, got the highest customer score in our survey, at 87%. Although its population is only around 12,000, it’s officially a city thanks to its 850-year-old cathedral – the seat of the Bishops of Bath and Wells. The Bishop’s Palace and Gardens opposite are also open to visitors. Next door, you’ll find Vicar’s Close, which is described as the only complete medieval street in England,” writes Which? of the city.
The city stood in for Sandford in Hot Fuzz (Image: blue sky in my pocket via Getty Images)
One of the prevailing features of Wells is just how small it is. Technically, it is the second-smallest city in England, after the 1.12-square-mile City of London, although some would argue that it loses out on the top spot on technicality alone. Wells, with its 12,000 people, is widely considered England’s smallest true standalone city.
But it’s not just a pleasantly sized package. There’s plenty there for visitors to enjoy. Built between 1175 and 1490, Wells Cathedral has been acclaimed as the most poetic of all English cathedrals, and it’s easy to understand why. As the first English cathedral to be constructed in the Gothic style, it commands a worldwide reputation. This magnificent structure is worthy of a visit for its architecture alone, yet it also houses more than 300 sculptures, Britain’s oldest working mechanical clock, and offers daily guided tours exploring the city’s fascinating history.
If, when you visit, you feel as if you’ve been to Wells before, it may be because of its cinematic pedigree. The city itself earned international fame as the filming location for the fictional village of Sandford in the classic Hot Fuzz, starring Simon Pegg, Nick Frost and a host of other celebrated British actors. Many of the film’s most iconic locations — including the Swan Hotel, the corner shop where the characters buy Cornettos, and the marketplace where the climactic gunfight unfolds — are real places that fans can visit in person.
Wells is also home to Europe’s oldest residential street. Vicars’ Close and its original 14th-century buildings are still completely intact. Built under the direction of Bishop Ralph of Shrewsbury, it has been continuously inhabited since the mid-1300s. Astonishingly, it still serves its original exact purpose: housing the adult members of the Wells Cathedral Choir. Bishop Ralph decided to house the choir together in a row of specially built houses, having grown concerned they were staying up too late drinking in town.
The street originally featured 42 identical, single-occupant cottages, each designed with just one room downstairs and one upstairs, completely lacking kitchens since meals were communal. However, following the Reformation, vicars were legally permitted to marry and have families. To accommodate wives and children, many of the original tiny cottages were knocked together. Today, only 27 residences remain.
Vicars Close was built in the 14th century (Image: Martín Burguillo via Getty Images)
The Wells Market is another major draw of the town, widely considered one of the finest, most vibrant traditional street markets in the West Country. It has been operating for over 800 years under a charter dating back to medieval times, it takes over the historic, cobbled Market Place every Wednesday and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.
It delivers a mix of old-school knick-knack stalls and farmers’ market fare. On any given market day, between 50 to 60 independent traders pitch their matching gazebos, filling the air with the smell of freshly brewed coffee and sizzling street food.
If the weather isn’t on your side, then popping into one of the city’s two dozen pubs is no bad idea. The Sheep & Penguin is particularly good for craft beer lovers. It’s been refurbished recently, sits in the city centre and features a fantastic hidden beer garden at the back.
The Fountain Inn is a more upmarket affair, tucked along St Thomas Street and widely considered the top gastronomic pub in Wells. The historic interior is packed with cozy leather sofas and fascinating antiques. A little out of the city is The Sheppey Inn, which sits on the Somerset Levels, this is a legendary destination pub blending rustic stone walls with David Hockney prints and retro booths. The brilliant waterside terrace sits right over the river, making it an unbeatable spot to sip local Somerset ciders.
