Having grown up in Yorkshire, my vision of a seaside town goes to the shores of Scarborough (or Skegness) with views of retro amusements, sounds of 2p coins trickling down a coin pusher and the distinct smell of freshly fried doughnuts being tossed in heaps of refined sugar. Although I will always love the charm of seaside destinations that are perhaps slightly beyond their prime years, on a recent trip to Suffolk, my view of what a seaside town could be was transformed into something resembling an all-round posher affair.
Taking up a small and quaint corner near the UK’s most easterly point, Southwold sits lining the North Sea on the Suffolk coast, surrounded by almost untouched flatlands to the north and south; with the more industrial towns of Lowestoft and Felixstowe leaving it plenty of breathing space on either side.
Despite the lack of altitude, there is a charm in the seemingly endless skies that creates a remarkable sunset that can be seen for miles around – and with its landmark 17th-century lighthouse overlooking the town, it still gives you plenty to gaze at.
Almost as soon as I stepped foot out of the car I could instantly tell I’d arrived in East Anglia, with no hills (or even a small mound, for that matter) in sight, creating its trademark impressively flat landscape and a far cry from the steep moors of the Peak District I grew up in.
The evening view is perhaps best enjoyed with a pint in hand and in Southwold, you’re in luck on the drinks front. The town is most famous as the home of Adnams Brewery, a staple in East Anglia with their Pale Ale “Ghost Ship” on tap at almost every pub you’ll step foot in.
For beer fanatics, a visit to the town isn’t quite complete without a tour around the brewery and distillery which has been at the heart of the town for more than 100 years.
Marked at the top by a charming Victorian pier, and at the other by dunes rolling into the town’s harbour, it’s a great place to sample some of the freshest seafood you can find on British soil – and when you’re not indulging in the local delicacies, its pristine beach is a must-visit.
The shore is perfect for a gentle stroll or, for the brave among us, a dip in the baltic-feeling sea although on this rather chilly day, I’m ashamed to say I stayed on dry land.
But unlike many towns and villages nearby, the high street itself offers plenty to keep you occupied, full of artsy boutiques, artisan bakeries and some solid restaurant choices, it’s no wonder The Prince and Princess of Wales have been known to visit.
But as the town is lined with ornate Georgian cottages, and with it being a manageable drive away from the Capital, what was once a quaint and classic Suffolk town has been taken over by Londoners – creating a very real problem for locals.
David Beaven, Independent cabinet member for housing on the Green and Liberal Democrat, said the intrusion of second homeowners was “killing the community”.
“Only one in three houses in Southwold are actually lived in,” he told the Eastern Daily Press. “Roughly speaking, a third are lived in, a third are holiday homes and a third are second homes lived in part of the year.”
Measures have been introduced in recent years to reduce the influx of second home owners including the development of a neighbourhood plan with a “principal resident requirement” in 2022.
“Without a thriving full-time community, Southwold will lose many of the things that make it a place people want to visit and spend their holidays,” the plan stated.
