Polperro looks like its come from the pages of a pirate novel (Image: Greg Martin/ Reach PLC)
Locals in a stunning Cornwall village, where countless shops close their doors and numerous properties lie empty throughout the “deadly” winter period, are united in their view that it offers an “amazing” and vibrant community.
Polperro, situated in South East Cornwall, looks as though it has stepped straight out of a gothic fairy tale. Incredibly picturesque without being excessively quaint, it was formerly a sanctuary for smugglers intent on dodging the taxman. These days, countless holidaymakers view Polperro as some kind of themed pirate settlement. They believe its maze of lanes – the majority too slim for vehicles – which tumble down a verdant valley towards the ancient harbour, stand empty.
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Artist Gina Farrell loves living in Polperro (Image: Greg Martin / Cornwall Live)
Throughout the summer, these day-trippers descend upon Polperro in their droves like the pilchards that were formerly brought ashore here, alongside other contraband cargo.
When winter arrives, this flood of sightseers reduces to barely a trickle, rendering the lanes empty and countless of Polperro’s art spaces, eateries, and souvenir outlets shuttered.
Yet, those who actually call it home insist there remains a strong sense of community spirit, even though the majority now occupy properties on the hillsides instead of within the centre of the historic village itself.
They claim it’s a marvellous location to call home – notwithstanding the challenges that excessive tourism and holiday homes can bring, reports the Express.
Fran Martin, who is employed at the 18th-century Blue Peter Inn overlooking the harbour, has lived in Polperro for more than 20 years.
Lee Gregory says Polperro is a “great community” (Image: Greg Martin / Cornwall Live)
She discloses that its population has shrunk by a third throughout that time. She lamented: “There were 300 people living down here in the village when I came here – there’s just 200 now. Nobody can afford to live here.
“I feel very sorry for the youngsters – it’s ridiculous,” she voiced, expressing her concerns about young locals being priced out of their own home town. This is a concern that echoes across Cornwall and other areas popular with tourists.
When asked about the winter months, Fran said: “It’s dead. Some places do try to stay open, but there just aren’t that many people here.”
Kim Thompson, a local businesswoman who runs Ocean’s Studio, specialising in Moorcross pottery and Anita Harris ceramics, moved to Polperro from Stoke-on-Trent four years ago.
She described the winters here as “deadly”. She added: “It goes very quiet – and very wet.
“It changes dramatically. But that suits certain people, who are looking for a quieter holiday.”
Her pottery studio remains open until the end of December, then closes from January until the end of March. Kim often retreats to Stoke-on-Trent during these winter months, but she insists that Polperro still has a “great” community.
She stated: “It’s a real community – and that surprises people. Living here, you really do get to know everyone in the village.
“Everybody gets along and we all look out for one another. It’s a great community”.
Artist Gina Farrell, who runs a gallery and painting studio directly opposite Kim’s ceramics workshop in Polperro, has called the village both her home and workplace for nearly – and insists it still possesses a strong sense of community.
“It is very quiet in the winter,” she admits, revealing that she shuts shop in January before reopening for the February half-term week and weekends.
However, Gina points out that she would be in her studio creating artwork regardless, so it makes perfect sense to open her gallery while she’s there.
Gina counts herself as “very lucky” to have secured a housing association property “up on the hill”. She has seen firsthand the problems caused by excessive tourism and second-home ownership.
She revealed: “When my kids were little, we moved from place to place – and they would all be sold by their owners. I think I was a lucky charm for anybody who wanted to sell their house.”
Yet, she notes that second homes are being put up for sale and permanent residents are returning – a trend that has also been observed in nearby Looe, where BBC One’s Beyond Paradise films.
Gina attributes soaring energy bills – coupled with a drop in holiday rental bookings – as the reason (or blessing) behind this shift. Gina stated: “Lots of people do move here.
“I love living here. It’s a real community. We all know each other and help each other.”
Lee Gregory, whose family has owned Polperro’s Model Village for nearly four decades, once lived above the business in the heart of the historic village, but now operates from a smallholding on the outskirts.
He said: “Everybody gets along and we all look out for one another. It’s a great community.”
While he acknowledges that most residents now live up on the hill rather than near the harbour, he insists that it’s “still a good community down here”.
The colourful harbour in Polperro in Cornwall, England, UK (Image: David Clapp via Getty Images)
He emphasises that the community spirit continues even during the winter months. Lee added: “It still has a community feel – it’s just a lot quieter.
“You do see a few more people around at weekends – and you still see people in the pubs! Some of the holiday cottages have been sold, and that’s been a real boost to the community.”
However, Lee closes the model village for much of the winter, only opening for the busier Christmas period. Artist Jasmine Rebecca Cave doesn’t even open for Christmas.
Jasmine only opens her tiny kiosk gallery, which is so small she sits outside it on the street, for the summer season. Despite living a 40-minute drive away in Carlyon Bay near St Austell, she describes Polperro as having an “amazing” community, even during the winter.
Jasmine expressed: “It’s an amazing community here. I probably know more people here than I do where I live – you just can’t avoid people here, so you get to know everyone. “The community stays really vibrant, even in the winter. It’s lovely atmosphere – very quirky.
“I think the locals quite like the winter – they get their village back.”