When people picture a Greek island escape, names like Corfu, Santorini and Mykonos tend to dominate the conversation. But while these destinations offer undeniable beauty, they have also become magnets for cruise ships, luxury prices and selfie-stick tourists. If you’re looking for a Greek getaway that is equally charming but far more authentic, it is time to set your sights elsewhere.
Unlike on Mykonos, where the parties often roar until sunrise, the small island of Ithaca, just off the northeast coast of Kefalonia in the Ionian Sea, hums a quiet rhythm of genuine island life. Its quiet beaches, traditional tavernas and uncrowded hiking trails invite slow mornings and starlit evenings, without the thumping music from the bar next door. Ithaca’s charm lies in its unspoiled coves, crystal-clear waters and olive-dotted hillsides, a far cry from Santorini’s Instagram-famous whitewashed houses. Finally, while Corfu’s grand fortresses and Venetian architecture continue to draw crowds, this Ionian alternative boasts a history just as, if not more, impressive.
Known in Homer’s Odyssey as the home of the Greek hero Odysseus, Ithaca invites you to explore ancient ruins, myth-laden caves and winding coastal paths where history feels part of the landscape.
Covering an area of just 37 square miles, Ithaca is the second-smallest of the seven main Ionian Islands after Paxos. As of 2021, it is home to around 2,862 people. The even smaller, uninhabited island of Atokos lies further to the northeast.
The island’s capital is Vathy (Vathi), which faces the water and boasts colourful façades which house cafes and tavernas, fringed by bobbing fishing boats. Here, you can find the iconic statue of Odysseus, whose delayed return to the island is the plot of the epic poem.
Whereas in the likes of Santorini and Mykonos, that authentic feel of Greek tavernas has been replaced by restaurants that companies think tourists want to visit, in Ithaca, you can find family-run establishments where owners greet you with local wines and fishermen share their day’s catch – a far cry from these more commercialised islands.
Instead of squeezing onto Santorini’s crowded sands or paying Mykonos prices for a sunbed, Ithaca offers secluded coves you can often have to yourself. Filiatro Beach is renowned for its shallow turquoise waters and smooth pebbles, while Gidaki – reachable by boat or a scenic hike – rewards you with a wild, natural setting.
For complete privacy, Polis Bay, close to Stavros village, offers a sheltered slice of coast framed by lush hillsides. This is also a significant site connected to the Odyssey, with a nearby cave, Loizos’ Cave, yielding artefacts like engraved shells, stones, and tiles, some suggesting worship of goddesses and bronze tripods that match descriptions of Odysseus’s treasure.
Since Ithaca does not have its own airport, travellers must first fly into Kefalonia International Airport (EFL). Many of London’s airports, including Heathrow, Gatwick and Luton, all run flights to the island, with flights available later this month for just £64 one way with easyJet from Gatwick, according to Skyscanner. Once you land, you will need to take a ferry across to Ithaca. Ferries, including through Levante Ferries, run from ports including Sami, Poros and Fiscardo to Ithaca’s main ports of Vathy, Frikes and Pisaetos. Book your ferry tickets in advance, especially during the summer season when schedules fill up quickly.
“The island is very unspoilt. There is little nightlife, which would not suit everyone but is ideal for a relaxing, quiet holiday,” said one visitor on Tripadvisor. “The beaches, whilst pebbly, are clean and ideal for children as the sea is calm, clear and great for snorkelling and swimming.”
