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‘Smuggest’ town in Britain has ‘Goldilocks high street’ with no Costa | UK | News

amedpostBy amedpostJuly 28, 2025 News No Comments5 Mins Read
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Totnes

A bustling Totnes high street on a car free Saturday When lockdown started, the future for Totnes high street – like thousands of other across the country – looked bleak.One by one, shops closed and notices were pasted in windows until only a handful of increasingly essential shops remained.As the weeks turned into months, the sea of brown paper streaked across windows made it apparent lockdown had dealt a fatal blow for some.On Tuesday, June 9, when the government gave the go ahead for non essential shops to reopen, many feared it was too late for the high street. (Image: Jacqui Merrington)

Totnes has been crowned the UK’s ‘smuggest’ town, largely due to its high street brimming with independent boutiques and eateries. The Daily Mail reports that one local trader characterised the self-proclaimed ‘creative capital’ as possessing a ‘Goldilocks high street’.

The town’s smug reputation is partly attributed to its conspicuous lack of chain stores. As The Daily Mail notes: ” The one representative of a major national café brand, Caffe Nero’s Coffee#1, has only a couple of occupied tables in its comparatively spacious premises.”

This could be due to its location at the top of the rather steep high street, some distance from the main car parks.

Twelve years ago, Totnes made it clear that national chains were not particularly welcome when Costa attempted to open a branch in the market town. This sparked a 6,000-name protest by residents, 300 objections to planners, and the creation of the campaign site ‘notcosta.co.uk’, reports Devon Live.

Despite having the option to proceed with the opening, Costa withdrew after then managing director Chris Rogers recognised Totnes as “a town with a long and proud history of independent retailers”.

Gavin Brown, front-of-house manager at Brioche café, recalls the uproar vividly, telling The Daily Mail: “The locals got so riled about that.

“There were fears that every national chain would start eyeing us up.

Read more: Inside ‘perfect storm’ that’s ruined ‘brilliant’ British town

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“People here have a strong sense that this town is the creative capital of England.

“There are lots of artistic retailers, lots of quirky shops. It was felt franchises would diminish the character of the place.

“Independence isn’t the only reason Totnes has bucked the trend of run-down town centres.

“We have the coast, the moors, beautiful countryside and amazing history on our doorstep. It all helps attract visitors. But it also helps to look and be different.”

At Green Café, John Pollard concurs, describing Totnes as “a little curiosity shop” whilst dismissing the myth that chains offer better value.

“Our coffee is cheaper than Costa and our pasties cheaper than our nearest chain rival,” he explained.

“Yes, Totnes is successful. I shudder to think what it’s like for shops in similar small towns in the north of England.

“But we’re also under pressure. Our business energy contract has been crippling. Taxes we pay to local and national government have hit five per cent of turnover. There’s no support for family enterprises.”

Totnes: Aerial views show town in Devon

Former investment manager Simon Moorman, who owns Totnes Wine and Fine Foods, remarked: “Relatively speaking, we’re thriving.

“Visitors all tell me the same thing: ‘We wish our high street was like yours’.

“But almost every Totnes trader I know is cutting back on hours or the number of people they employ.

“The notion that this government supports growth is absolute crap. Business rates have doubled, the minimum wage and national insurance contributions have increased and local parking charges have rocketed.

“Why is anyone surprised that high streets are in trouble.”

In the charming town of Totnes, chain stores are notably absent, much to the delight of local businesses. Rosie Sage, a 24 year old shop owner at the Fayre Trade Fairy, told The Daily Mail about the importance of community support for her business.

“If HandM moved next door to us we’d be finished,” she said. She recalled her time living on a shopping street in Exeter, where independent traders struggled against big brands.

“That doesn’t happen in Totnes because we have a really strong community willing to fight to protect what it has.”

The East Gate Arch, Totness, Devon, UK

Totnes enjoys incredible medieval gates plus modern shopping (Image: Getty)

Totnes Mayor Tim Bennett also shared insights with the publication. “What’s the secret of our success? There’s no single thing. A lot is built up about residents keeping out big chains such as Costa but in truth we aren’t really what most chains are looking for.”

He highlighted the challenges and costs associated with the town’s many listed buildings.

“We have a decent retail mix now. The chains don’t dominate and our independent shops have a fair chance to succeed.”

Bennett emphasised the role of tourism and the critical impact of street markets. “The Town Council knows the importance of holidaymakers,” he remarked.

“But we can’t rely only on our summer trade.”

He underscored the significance of seasonal markets: “Street markets are vital. I know of shops which take more money during our three Christmas markets then they do for the whole of the rest of the year. Without that income they would go to the wall.

“We are under no illusion. Totnes lives and dies by its High Street.”

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