Regular followers of journalist Portia Jones’ work will be well aware of her unabashed affection for Welsh market towns. A collection of authentic pubs, independent retailers, and eccentric cafes offering local fare and quality coffee is enough to make her as content as a clam in budget chardonnay.
Over the years, Portia has visited a considerable number of market towns throughout Wales, and is frequently asked which one holds the top spot. She admits it is a challenging question given that the country is practically brimming with charm, but after much contemplation, often conducted in pubs, Portia has reached a conclusion. She said: “Rhayader. Always Rhayader.”
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Portia explains…The place I find myself repeatedly drawn to and enthusiastically recommend to anyone unfortunate enough to ask for suggestions. I could prattle on about it for hours!
Situated at a crossroads in mid-Wales, Rhayader is a vastly underappreciated gem that, despite its wealth of attractions, doesn’t receive the recognition it merits, reports Wales Online.
Boasting the stunning dams and reservoirs of the Elan and Claerwen Valleys, I believe Rhayader ranks among the finest market towns in Wales and warrants an extended visit when journeying along the A470.
This community-centric market town serves as an ideal base for biking, hiking, wildlife spotting, or simply unwinding with friends in traditional pubs.
Rhayader has long functioned as a hub in mid-Wales for weary travellers, acting as a stopover for drovers and those embarking on the lengthy journey from London to Aberystwyth.
For an epic Sunday lunch head to The Crown for generous portions of meat and veg (Image: Portia Jones)
Today, it’s recognised as the gateway to the Elan Valley, situated just on the outskirts of the expansive estate. It serves as a convenient hub, boasting a variety of independent shops, cafes, and pubs, and proudly labels itself as the ‘outdoors capital of Wales’.
In terms of pubs, Rhayader offers an impressive selection for such a small town, contributing to its top spot on my list of market towns.
For a hearty Sunday lunch, make your way to The Crown, where you’ll be treated to generous helpings of meat, vegetables, and Yorkshire pudding. This is Sunday lunch as Mam would make it – no-nonsense, satisfying, and drenched in lashings of gravy.
You certainly won’t leave with an empty stomach. A short walk away in Cwmdauddwr, you’ll find the Historic Triangle, a charming 16th-century drover’s inn. Here, you can enjoy a crackling fire, real cask ales on tap, and homemade food featuring several pub favourites.
If you’re after a cycling route that’s easy-going and packed with jaw-dropping views, the Elan Valley trail should definitely be on your biking bucket list. (Image: Portia Jones)
The Lamb and Flag is another excellent choice for ales, traditional bar meals, and Sunday carveries, while the vibrant green Elan Hotel’s bar offers a good range of beverages.
Pop into The Lost Arc for lunch and coffee at this quirky community cafe. I highly recommend my favourite dish – a delicious Welsh rarebit consisting of toasted bread topped with warm mature cheddar, Welsh ale, and a hint of laverbread and mustard.
It’s truly a slice of heaven, and I challenge you to find a better one in Wales. If you do, please let me know – I’m always on the hunt for a superb rarebit.
In addition to the iconic Welsh classic, they also serve coffee, cakes, light lunches, and a variety of vegan options. By evening, this trendy spot morphs into a live music venue, hosting emerging artists and popular pizza nights.
The Old Swan Tea Rooms is a charming, family-run establishment offering a delightful selection of homemade pasties, cakes, and lunches. Don’t miss their irresistible chicken curry, crafted from a cherished family recipe.
For a top-notch caffeine hit in Rhayader, make a beeline for Narrative Coffee, the latest addition to the high street that’s already causing a stir and garnering glowing reviews.
This chic little café recently reached the finals of the UK Coffee Masters in London, an impressive achievement that has left the team thrilled to be recognised as one of Wales’ premier spots for speciality coffee.
Rhayader isn’t just about pubs; it’s also a delightful destination for shopping at independent and boutique stores. The main thoroughfare boasts a compact shopping area where you can peruse a range of antiques, local crafts, prints, pottery, upcycled clothing, and local souvenirs.
One of the more unique retail experiences in town is Hafod Hardware – a vintage, family-owned hardware store that’s been serving customers since 1895.
In addition to the usual DIY essentials and kitchenware, you can also discover vintage-style tourism prints of Wales, bespoke Elan Valley mugs, and chocolate bars that make perfect gifts.
Quillies is a must-visit for its exquisite locally-crafted items such as pottery, textiles, jewellery, and fused glass. For a shopping spree, head over to the family-owned No8 Clothing, where an array of men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing, accessories, and gifts await.
For a small country, Wales has embraced an outsized role in preserving the night sky (Image: Portia Jones / Dafydd Wyn Morgan)
The two-storey shop boasts a range of popular brands including Joules, Brakeburn, Seasalt, Soya Concept, Mistral, Joe Browns, Wrangler, Pachamama, Jellycat, and Powder.
River Wood holds the unique distinction of being the UK’s only gallery-bookshop dedicated exclusively to wildlife and wild places, brimming with original paintings, prints, cards, and books. The upper floor houses a working artist’s studio and a space for creative workshops.
For quality outdoor attire, Hill Walking offers a wide selection of clothing, boots, and accessories from brands like Urban Road, Game, Regatta, Trespass, and Craghoppers. These brands are all well-suited to cope with the wildly unpredictable weather conditions in Wales.
Beyond the town’s borders, a plethora of activities and outdoor adventures are available. Rhayader serves as the gateway to the stunning Elan Valley, home to the estate’s Victorian dams nestled amidst rolling green hills.
Constructed over a century ago to quench the thirst of a heavily urbanised Birmingham, these distinctive gravity dams attract photographers eager to capture the cascading waters.
The tale of the Elan Valley originates in the late 19th century, during a period of rapid expansion for Birmingham, a bustling city at the peak of the Industrial Revolution.
In dire need of a dependable and uncontaminated water source, engineers turned their attention to the secluded Elan Valley. Its high rainfall and steep, narrow topography made it an ideal site for a series of reservoirs.
In 1892, one of the era’s most ambitious water supply projects commenced. Over 3,000 workers were enlisted to construct dams, reservoirs, and aqueducts manually, aided by steam-powered machinery. By the project’s completion in 1904, the Elan Valley had undergone a remarkable transformation.
Four primary dams were erected – Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg, and Craig Goch. Each dam is a testament to engineering prowess, constructed from local stone and designed to integrate seamlessly with the natural surroundings.
For instance, the Caban Coch Dam, when viewed from afar, resembles a natural cliff face. However, up close, its immense scale and the sound of water tumbling over its edge are truly breathtaking. The reservoirs themselves, expansive and deep bodies of water, mirror the neighbouring hills and sky, creating an idyllic setting.
Catch the sunset over one of the five main dams you can visit in the area (Image: Joe Daniel Price)
Visitors can obtain a map of the estate from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, where staff are also on hand to recommend picturesque routes to view the dams.
The ideal time to leisurely explore the estate is following a heavy downpour (a common occurrence in Wales), when reservoir water cascades over the steep ‘Birmingham Baroque’-style structures.
Fancy a guided tour by a local expert? You can arrange a customised tour of the Elan Valley and the Cambrian Mountains area with Cambrian Safaris, uncovering all the hidden gems with an experienced guide.
One of the most rewarding ways to discover Elan Valley is by walking or cycling along the Elan Valley Trail. This 13-mile (21km) path traces the old railway line that transported materials to the valley during the dam’s construction.
Nowadays, a well-kept trail meanders through some of the valley’s most picturesque spots.
Beginning in the quaint village of Cwmdeuddwr, just west of Rhayader, you’ll follow the old Birmingham Corporation Railway line, perfectly situated to showcase Elan’s finest Victorian dams.
The linear trail is predominantly flat, featuring a few inclines and tarmacked stretches, making it suitable for cyclists of all skill levels, including older children.
And if you fancy a bit of assistance, you can always hire an E-bike in Rhayader – after all, who says you can’t traverse the valley in style?
If you’re not bringing your own bike, you can rent a push bike or an E-bike from either Neil’s Wheels or Clive Powell Mountain Bikes. The trail should take around three hours, so hiring a bike for half a day should afford ample time for photo opportunities and coffee breaks.
The route ascends 165ft from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, passing by the striking Caban Coch and Garreg Ddu reservoirs. When filled to capacity, millions of gallons of water tumble over the historic 120ft-high dam walls of Cabin Coch.
Dŵr Cymru Welsh Water is the proprietor of the nearby Elan Estate, although a substantial portion is vested in the Elan Valley Trust. While its primary function is to provide a clean water supply, the estate also serves as a meticulously managed beauty spot for intrigued visitors.
One of the more unique shopping options in Rhayader is Hafod Hardware, a retro, family-run hardware store that has been open since 1895 (Image: Portia Jones)
Over 80% of the valley has been designated a site of special scientific interest (SSSI), teeming with wildlife and boasting extraordinary landscapes.
Owing to its varied habitats and careful stewardship, the Elan Valley is a sanctuary for a wide array of wildlife. The valley’s woodlands, moorlands, and wetlands offer habitats for a diverse range of species, including birds, mammals, insects, and plants.
The expansive moorland acts as a hunting ground for birds of prey, with red kites, buzzards, and occasionally peregrine falcons soaring high above.
For a closer encounter with the resident red kites, make your way to Gigrin Farm, renowned for its red kite feeding. Situated half a mile from Rhayader, hundreds of red kites feed here, making it the prime location in the UK to observe and photograph hundreds of wild red kites, including the rare leucistic red kites.
Small-scale cattle farming remains a vital aspect of agriculture in the Elan Valley, with only a few farms still maintaining this tradition. Keep your eyes peeled and you’ll spot cattle grazing freely on the open hillsides and within some enclosed habitats.
The flora of the Elan Valley is equally captivating. Dense forests are home to ancient oaks, while the moorlands are blanketed in a lush layer of heather, bilberry, and mosses. Come spring and summer, the valley’s meadows come alive with a riot of wildflowers, adding vibrant hues to the landscape.
The Elan Valley has one of the darkest, clearest, and most unpolluted skies in the world. (Image: Portia Jones / Dafydd Wyn Morgan)
Did you know that Rhayader and the Elan Valley boast some of the world’s darkest, clearest, and least polluted skies?
With its 45,000 acres of safeguarded land, the Elan Valley has been at the forefront of this movement since it was awarded International Dark Sky Park status in 2015, becoming the first privately owned, publicly accessible park globally to achieve this.
This prestigious recognition ensures protection from light pollution for the Elan Valley, providing a haven for the rich wildlife and nature inhabiting the estate.
Since earning its dark-sky designation, the Elan Valley has gained recognition as one of the premier stargazing destinations worldwide, featuring in numerous stargazing guides, talks, and books.
But what does this mean for stargazers? Simply put, it means minimal light pollution and crystal-clear skies, allowing you to observe the Milky Way, meteor showers, and even the faint luminescence of neighbouring galaxies with the naked eye.
The valley’s secluded location and dedicated conservation efforts make it a prime destination for those yearning for a profound connection with the universe.
There are numerous ideal spots for stargazing scattered throughout the area. Remember to bring a red-light torch to maintain your night vision, and allow your eyes around 20 minutes to adapt to the darkness for the full celestial spectacle.
For a more engaging experience, keep an eye out for organised stargazing events in the vicinity where you can delve deeper into the cosmos or even dabble in astrophotography.
Both the Elan Valley Trust and Dark Sky Wales frequently host guided tours and workshops, providing expert knowledge and access to telescopes.
For information on upcoming dark sky events, check the ‘What’s On’ page on the Elan Valley website, or follow their Facebook (ElanValley) and Instagram (@elanvalley) accounts.
Home to the spectacular dams and reservoirs of the Elan and Claerwen Valleys, Rhayader is an underrated market town that’s is an ideal hub for biking, hiking and wildlife watching (Image: Portia Jones)
Accommodation options
Mid Wales Holiday Lets
These affordable holiday lets can accommodate up to 44 guests, with Glandwr House, Afonwy House, The Old Drapers, The Bakehouse, and The Cwtch all available for booking.
The attractive red-brick converted townhouses are perfect for groups of friends or families visiting the Elan Valley region. They also cater well to cyclists, offering secure bike storage to safeguard your equipment. After a strenuous day exploring the trails, you can relax in the outdoor hot tub, ideal for easing those tired muscles.
Ty Morgans
For a central stay in Rhayader, Ty Morgans is a historic townhouse that seamlessly blends traditional allure with contemporary comfort.
This charming, reasonably priced boutique accommodation is nestled at the heart of Rhayader, making it an ideal base for exploring both the town and the Elan Valley.
The snug rooms retain original features such as oak beams and stone fireplaces, whilst also providing all the contemporary conveniences you’d anticipate, including en suite bathrooms.
Ty Morgans also boasts an on-site bar and restaurant where guests can savour a range of meals from hearty Welsh breakfasts to evening dinners. Its central location ensures you’re merely a brief walk away from local shops, pubs and the Riverside Walk.
Elan Valley Hotel
Situated just a short drive from the Elan Valley, the Elan Valley Hotel is a prime choice for those seeking a blend of comfort and convenience encapsulated in a boutique hotel experience. Here, you’ll discover well-furnished rooms offering stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Each room is designed with comfort in mind, featuring plush beds and modern amenities.
The hotel’s restaurant is celebrated for its exceptional menu, which utilises locally-sourced ingredients to deliver a truly authentic taste of Wales. It’s the perfect spot for easy access to the Elan Valley’s numerous trails and reservoirs while indulging in a touch of luxury.
Explore the wider area (Image: Wales Online)
Getting to Rhayader
Rhayader, known as the gateway to the Elan Valley, is easily reachable from various parts of Wales and England.
By car
If you’re planning to drive, Rhayader is conveniently accessible via the A470 and A44, offering a picturesque road trip from cities such as Cardiff (roughly 2.5 hours), Birmingham (just over two hours), or Shrewsbury (approximately 90 minutes). The roads leading into mid Wales meander through charming countryside, so do factor in some additional time for leisurely rural routes and photo opportunities.
Public transport
For those considering public transport, train and bus services are available, albeit limited due to the rural nature of the area. The closest railway station is located in Llandrindod Wells, about 12 miles away, with connections provided by Transport for Wales.
From there, a local bus service can take you to Rhayader. For further details and timetables, consult Traveline Cymru or utilise transport apps to assist in planning your journey.