The Cornish coastline is a rugged wonder with dramatic rock faces that straddle azure waters. No beach or cove is the same, though some are more renowned than others, like St Ives on the north-west coast.
The postcard-perfect town draws visitors from all over in the summer months and staked its claim as one of Europe’s top beach destinations in 2011, beating the best Spain, France, and Italy have to offer. But beneath its seaside charm, I was surprised to discover that St Ives has murky water and an overbearing hum of tourists. Those planning a trip to Cornwall may find a nearby spot more impressive.
St Ives has a lot to offer, with five sandy beaches and a gently sloping shoreline, it’s ideal for families and sunbathers.
Beachfront amenities are aplenty with lifeguard patrols from Easter to September, rentable deck chairs, and water sports hire- kayaks, stand-up paddle boards and more. On sunny days, the town’s “premier” beach, Porthmeor, is a hive of activity.
Behind the beach lies a charming maze of narrow streets where pastel-painted cottages house a plethora of restaurants, bars and cafes. Local eateries offer a taste of authentic Cornish cuisine, featuring dishes such as pasties, crab, and mussels.
It’s a must-visit if you’ve never been, like I hadn’t before last summer. Arriving with high expectations, the bay looked stunning from a distance (the busy car park at the top of the town). Honey-coloured stone buildings beckoned in the streets below, but once I stepped foot on the beach, reality set in.
Families and groups spread across every inch of sand on a weekday afternoon in July. At 4pm, the beach remained packed, even on the far side of Porthmeor beach.
With a Cornish pasty in tow, I finally sat down only to be greeted with a flock of fierce seagulls that had clearly spent the day feasting on litter left on the sand.
The real disappointment came when I entered the sea for a quick dip.
Having visited Kynance Cove and Pedn Vounder Beach just days earlier, I was unimpressed by the slightly murky water that looked polluted by heavy foot traffic and frequent boat churn.
I wondered why I was swimming here when Cornwall is blessed with so many clear, tucked-away coves. Later that same evening, when I drove further up the coastline towards Hayle, I stumbled across one of them. Gwithian Towans Beach is at the far side of St Ives Bay and offers a broad, spacious sandy beach that is popular for surfing and seldom crowded.
It’s just a 20-minute drive through country roads to reach the incredible beach, which is backed by huge dunes that are great for long walks.
When the tide goes out, nearby Godrevy Beach seamlessly merges with Gwithian to form one vast stretch of beach. At high tide, it’s a distinct cove framed by cliffs and the National Trust-owned headland.
Set at the far end of St Ives Bay, Godrevy Point is a neighbouring gem renowned for its iconic lighthouse and a small colony of lesser-spotted seals.
The water here is noticeably clearer, likely because it is more exposed to Atlantic swells that disperse sediments. A dip here is refreshing and less imposing than in St Ives itself.
On the beach, you can find a slice of privacy behind dramatic rocks – even on a busy afternoon. But the true wonder of this westerly spot is the sunset views.
You can park at the top of the headland in a National Trust car park and take a short stroll down to Gwithian beach for a quick dip. It’s arguably more accessible for visitors than parking at the top of St Ives and wandering the steep path down to the shoreline there.
Amenities are harder to come by, but there is a small cafe and surf shop at Gwithian and a National Trust cafe at Godrevy. Limited toilet and shower facilities are available in the Gwithian parking areas.