Living just 40 miles from the Cotswolds means I spend much of my time exploring hidden tearooms, scenic walking trails, and historic manor houses. Whether it be wandering around Bourton-on-the-Water, Broadway, the Slaughters or visiting overpriced farm shops, there’s something I love about the Cotswold villages and towns. However, on a recent visit to Stow-on-the-Wold, I don’t think I’ll be revisiting anytime soon.
Stow has attracted people settling in the Cotswolds since the Iron Age. The market town is surrounded by six roads, making it a convenient meeting place. The centre of the town has a remarkably large and impressive market square, and markets are said to have taken place in this very location since 1107, when King Henry II granted a charter.
History and hospitality are never far away in the town, either. It’s the location of the oldest inn in England, with a history reaching back as far as 987AD. It still has many original features, including a medieval fireplace with so-called “witch’s marks,” which were meant to ward off spells.
I’ll often pop into The Porch House for a drink and love its low beams, stone fireplaces and cosy nooks. It’s definitely worth visiting if you’re in the area.
My other favourite things to do include popping into independent shops and cafes, and always stopping at Roly’s Fudge Pantry for a bag (or two) of their crumbly, buttery fudge. The smell alone filling the streets is impossible to resist.
There are plenty of cafes around Market Square, including The Hive, New England Coffee House, and Lucy’s Tearoom. However, Huffkins Bakery and Tea Room is my personal favourite. It offers an array of drinks, sandwiches, and baked goods.
If you’re looking for some history, take a look at St Edward’s Church and its magical door. Famous for its fairytale-like door framed by ancient yew trees, this small church looks straight out of The Lord of the Rings. In fact, it’s one of the most photographed spots in the Cotswolds.
I also love just wandering around the roads off the main square, and you’ll often find sprawling countryside views. There’s also a four-mile walking trail to Lower Slaughter and Upper Slaughter, two of the prettiest villages in England, which is definitely worth the trip.
So, why won’t I visit again?
Parking. If you can find a space in the market square, you’re extremely lucky. I often have to park at the bottom of the town in an equally small car park, which costs at least £8 for a few hours.
Even when visiting in the morning, the market square is incredibly crowded with cars. On a recent visit, I did manage to find a car parking spot in the main square after doing a few laps of the town. Upon exiting my car and carefully crossing the road, I was nearly run over by a local speeding through a very busy area. As much as I love the pretty town, the parking and nearly getting hit by a car have really put me off returning.