A few years ago, I decided to leave the city to pursue a life by the coast. It was always my dream to live minutes from the seaside, and I have managed to do just that. In the summer, I spend my evenings walking along the beach with an ice cream in hand, admiring the view of our French neighbours. In the winter, I stroll along the pier, watching the sunset sipping a decadent hot chocolate while nodding at the fishermen catching mackerel and dogfish.
When I first moved here four years ago, the pretty seaside town of Deal was under the radar. The weekends were more lively, but the high street was still pleasant enough to stroll along without tripping over miniature dachshunds and boisterous toddlers. Now, this coastal gem has become somewhat of a hotspot for DFLs (Down From London) and tourists looking to bag a table at some of Deal’s trendiest restaurants and bars.
And who can blame them? Located just one hour and 30 minutes by train from St Pancras, Deal is a convenient location for Londoners looking to spend a day by the sea.
Unlike other seaside towns, everything is conveniently a stone’s throw away once you arrive in Deal. Walk five minutes down Park Street past Sainsbury’s and Aldi and you’re right in the centre of town.
You only need to walk a few minutes down King Street from the High Street to get to the bustling seafront.
Run out of milk? No need to worry. Two major supermarkets are located opposite the train station and are open until 10pm. Deal is not just cool; it’s convenient.
Last year, The Times also dubbed Deal the ‘coolest spot on the coast’ with its indie boutiques, trendy restaurants and olde worlde vibe, which I imagine being somewhat of a novelty for the London set.
Meanwhile, renowned food critic Grace Dent named the Japanese-inspired restaurant Blue Pelican one of her restaurants of the year in 2024. And Jay Rayner praised The Rose a few years ago for its “impressive cooking”.
Deal Castle, an artillery fort constructed by Henry VIII, is located on the edge of town adjacent to the beach. Offering stunning views of the coast—and France on a good day—and a comprehensive history of the castle, it’s the perfect attraction for adults and children.
Deal really is a magnificent town. One of my all-time favourite pleasures is meandering down some of the small roads off Middle Street and admiring the smugglers’ cottages and pastel-coloured Georgian townhouses.
I’ve also been lucky enough to take a dip in the sea occasionally when the weather is warm enough. I’ll never forget going for a refreshing swim in the evening after a particularly hot and sticky day a few years ago.
The sea was like a mill pond, perfectly still except for the odd ripple from those brave enough to take the plunge.
However, this summer, visitors hoping to enjoy a dip in the sea might be left sorely disappointed. In November 2024, Deal was dealt a devastating blow; the water quality at Deal Castle Beach was downgraded from “sufficient” to “poor” following investigations by the Environment Agency (EA).
The new rating will remain in place for 12 months and is due to increased levels of E.coli and intestinal enterococci, according to KentOnline.
The ranking has already significantly impacted events, with Deal’s annual Boxing Day Dip being cancelled last year.
Following guidance from the EA, Dover District Council (DDC) has introduced a do-not-swim warning with signs located outside the Royal Hotel car park on the seafront.
The new score could devastate visitor numbers, especially in the summer months when tourists flock to the beach for a dip in the sea.
Living in a seaside town, our lives are entwined with the sea. A few times a week, I walk down to the beach and enjoy a stroll along the seafront and Deal Pier. On some days, I can hear the waves crashing against the shingles from my house.
But the latest rating has left a bad taste in my mouth, making the once picturesque views across the channel feel somewhat unpleasant.
This devastating news is shocking not only for those living in the area like myself but also for local businesses, which rely on a steady stream of tourists in the summer months to survive the tough winter season.
Despite my love of the sea, and having previously braved the cold waters, I will not be setting foot in the sea this year due to the new rating.
Will tourists be put off by the new water quality rating in Deal? Only time will tell.
