He said: “The gamble of Wales in the spring (well, all year really) is the weather and while we had been blessed on our first day it deteriorated on the Saturday as we walked along the tops of the headland cliffs.
“But you can’t let it deter you and we ploughed on and it was well worth it with stunning views despite the gloom. Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island) came into sight as we reached the very tip of mainland north west Wales.”
The group returned to Aberdaron wet but pleased to have burnt off most of those breakfasts before heading off to dinner.
Owen said: “We learnt from our mistake on the Friday evening and this time booked ahead – picking the place in Llanbedrog (The Ship Inn) we had been turned away from the night before. Most of us enjoyed a solid meal of steaks – washed down by a couple of beers, although again a very tame affair compared to times past.”
Porthdinllaen near Morfa Nefyn on the Lleyn Peninsula (Image: Getty)
The good people of Anglesey and Pembrokeshire may want to look away now — according to NorthWales business correspondent Owen Hughes, Wales’s finest beaches lie on the outstretched arm of Cymru. He recently took a weekend break away to Ty Coch with friends and found any doubt was swiftly eradicated.
In his opinion, it really is unbeatable: “On this particular sunny spring day at Porthdinllaen where the headland blocked out the westerly breeze and this corner of the Llyn Peninsula felt like the Med. Stretching out ahead were the beaches of Morfa Nefyn and Nefyn – backed by Yr Eifl (The Rivals) which rose dramatically from the sea. It all helps that this view was being enjoyed with a pint and huge bowl of chilli at one of the world’s best beach bars.”
Read more Charming UK seaside town with beautiful low-tide island is UK’s ‘most relaxing’
The headland near Aberdaron (Image: Owen Hughes)
He mused that once upon a time, the pub would have been the start, end and duration of a lads holiday but now, all approaching 50, they opted for a pub lunch before heading out on a walk.
He said: “With our walking boots on we headed west around the headland, weaving our way along the initially narrow cliffside path and then across the edge of the Nefyn Golf Club course before cutting inland to complete an hour or so long circuit.
“It was enough to justify refuelling further and on the recommendation of one of the group we ended up driving down a tiny country lane to the most unlikely spot for a cafe and eclectic shop. But Cwt Tatws finally appeared and justified the hype, overlooking another stunner of a beach in Porth Towyn.”
The group stayed at the nearby Pen Goppa cottage near Bryncroes, which lies inland from Aberdaron and Abersoch.
Pen Goppa cottage (Image: holidaycottages.co.uk)
According to Owen the location was “spot-on”: “Beautifully remote, and the three bedroom place was charmingly traditional but also included every comfort and mod-con.”
The one drawback of Wales is that outside of peak season it can be difficult to find spots open late for dinner.
He said: “We were already on go slow holiday mode and by the time we got to checking, most takeaways were closing and we quickly had to get ready to catch a pub.
The view from the cottage (Image: holidaycottages.co.uk)
“We headed in the direction of Abersoch – but a spot in Llanbedrog took our fancy, only to be turned away – despite our appeals – after narrowly missing their 8pm cut off for food.
The next target – in Abersoch – said it served food until 9pm, it didn’t. It was third time lucky but only after a nervous wait as they checked with the kitchen.
“So do bear in mind that while the beaches look like the Med, this isn’t Spain when it to comes to evening hospitality.”
The next morning the group enjoyed the cottage’s hot tub and general outdoor facilities as the weather remained kind.
Porthdinllaen on the Llyn Peninsula (Image: Owen Hughes)
From there, they travelled down the road to the village of Aberdaron, on the westerly point of the Llyn.
Owen said: “I had done my research and went straight to Becws Islyn, a bakery where bread and cakes are baked daily, and there is a café on the first floor serving breakfast and other meals.
“We all went for a full Welsh breakfast to fuel us for the day ahead and it served us well. The counter choice of savoury and sweet treats was also immensely tempting so would definitely recommend if in the area.”
Those carbs were needed as they set off on their next walk around the headland beyond Aberdaron.
The beaches “look like the Med” (Image: Owen Hughes)
As is typical the Sunday the group was set to leave turned out to be the most glorious day of the weekend and being Mother’s Day all of them were all time pressured to get home.
Owen said: “There was still time for a quick breakfast at Wern caravan park outside Nefyn where it was hard to decide if it was the views or the breakfasts that were better.
“Looking up to Yr Eifl we felt while we had a packed a fair bit in there was still so much to explore in this truly spectacular part of the country.”
Fact sheet:
We booked Pen Goppa with holidaycottages.co.uk.
To book, visit www.holidaycottages.co.uk – prices from £679 for 7 nights, sleeping 6 people in 3 bedrooms and 3 dogs.