Bubble and squeak has become a cherished British classic. Traditionally made from leftover vegetables from a Sunday roast, it’s a simple, pan-fried delight that transforms cold potatoes, cabbage, and other greens into a crispy, golden-brown patty.
The dish’s enduring appeal lies in its use of leftovers, and the quirky name describes the sound the ingredients make while cooking. Often served as a breakfast or brunch item, bubble and squeak allows for endless variations, from adding bacon to cheese or even a fried egg on top. But ask chefs what they do to make bubble and squeak tastier, and they have a more sophisticated answer.
I asked five leading chefs and food writers what makes a great bubble and squeak – and three themes dominated.
Bold, savoury seasoning, combined with fats from the Sunday roast pan, makes for a delicious dish, but they said that you’ll find the answer to truly tastier bubble and squeak in a jar or bottle.
James Golding, Chef Director at Rockwater, goes straight in with the pepper mill: “I’m generous with black pepper, really generous.” He said it “cuts through the richness and adds warmth”.
James notes that the seasoning is as important as the texture, which he names as a “gloriously crispy, golden outer layer while keeping the inside soft and fluffy”.
But he called out English mustard as his “non-negotiable” ingredient. And a peppered, warm mixture is a must-have for award-winning chef Simon Bonwick of The Crown at Bray, too.
While he doesn’t disagree with the addition of black pepper and mustard, Simon says that bubble and squeak should be matched with another British classic, HP sauce. The iconic bottle does it all, with tamarind, vinegar, mace, and cloves, plus black pepper, all included in the sauce to make it so distinctive.
Among all the chefs, tomato sauce was branded as one ingredient to be avoided at all costs – even if it is Heinz. As chef James Golding put it: “Ketchup – absolutely not!”.
He says that mustard has “that sharp, nose-tingling heat and distinctly British punch that ketchup could never match”.
Sweet sauces are on the radar of some chefs when it comes to bubble and squeak, as noted by Harry Hook, a recipe developer and member of the Guild of Food Writers. He said: “Bubble and squeak – I think that might just be my mastermind subject! Or obsession at least.”
To make it tastier, Harry adds “chutney and lots of it – a whole jar will do nicely for adding twang, sweetness and a little spice”, he said. But don’t just opt for a tomato chutney in the absence of ketchup, he says: “Ideally, use one with dried fruit, so you get the occasional plump raisin running through it.”
At The Mutton on Hazeley Heath, Head Chef Rob Boer advocates for cabbage and mustard. “The cabbage is the best thing in a bubble and squeak for me,” he says, while “some whole grain mustard makes it so much better”.
His biggest pitfall is excess moisture, urging Britons to avoid any foods that make the mix wetter, harder to shape and trickier to move around when frying.
He levels up with leftovers that ooze flavour – “leftover beef fat and rosemary roast potatoes” – but draws the line at mayonnaise as far as “odd” condiments go.
Sean Dell, Executive Head Chef at Horwood House in Buckinghamshire, also reaches for the roast tin for a flavour head start. Using the “leftover duck fat from the roast potatoes the day prior to fry the onions in” is his ace.
He cautions against red cabbage, saying that it is “a bit sweet” and can discolour everything else.
When it comes to plating up bubble and squeak, the chefs agreed that small cakes or patties are best.
Simply fry them until golden and crispy and top with your favourite spiced companion; be it mustard, HP sauce, or chutney.
Chef Sean says he also opts for “two poached free-range eggs and an indulgent helping of freshly made hollandaise sauce, plus crispy streaky bacon.”