Midsomer Murders fans may already be familiar with this charming market town on a western bank of the River Thames even if they haven’t actually been there. That’s because Henley-on-Thames forms the backdrop to several episodes of the hit drama series, featuring DCI Barnaby.
Henley’s town hall appears as Causton court house and the town’s world-famous Henley Royal Regatta was transformed into Midsomer Regatta in Dead in the Water.
The real-life regatta has continued for almost 200 years, drawing thousands of visitors to the town in summer to watch rowers battling it out along the Thames.
Visitors looking for a more relaxing trip on the river can cruise with Hobbs of Henley, a family-run business which has been in boating for over 150 years.
Away from the water, Henley-on-Thames’s high street oozes charm, with family-run and independent shops, including Asquiths Teddy Bear Shop, Jonkers rare books dealer and Gabriel Machin butcher shop, which features in The Magician’s Nephew episode of Midsomer Murders.
Besides its prestigious regatta, the Oxfordshire town hosts Henley Festival, where stars including Sir Elton John, Lulu, Diana Ross and Tom Jones have graced the stage. Music fans can also head to the Rewind South Festival while book-lovers head to Henley Literary Festival.
In its early years, Henley was an inland port serving London. Warehouses lined the Thames as malt destined for breweries in the capital travelled downstream.
Medieval Henley grew rich from its booming trade until the Black Death arrived on those same barges and boats. But the town recovered, with merchants making fortunes, especially from malting.
Henley survived the Restoration relatively unscathed despite supporting the Roundheads and by the 18th century it was a fashionable destination for the well to-do.
The town’s fortunes turned again when it was bypassed by the new London to Bristol railway line. Grass grew in the streets, once grand buildings fell into disrepair and shops shut.
Enterprising locals came to its rescue with the idea of starting a rowing event and in 1839 the first regatta was born. An instant hit, it drew back the crowds and became Henley Royal Regatta in 1851 when Prince Albert was named its first patron.
Dr Michael Redley from Henley Archaeological & Historical Group said: “The town has always been very good at absorbing people – that’s in its bloodstream – and it’s also had to form a new raison d’être for itself. It’s always bounced back.”
Philippa Harvey has lived in Henley-on-Thames for 28 years. She told the Express: “I love the fact that it doesn’t really change. It’s a very friendly place.”
She said Henley comes alive when crowds descend on the town for the regatta, but there are plenty of other reasons to visit, including the town’s many festivals. Ms Harvey hailed Henley as a great point for walks along the river and in the surrounding countryside.
Shinaz Fisher-Bailey, 29, a local for 13 years, said she loves the town’s location by the River Thames and the surrounding countryside. She added: “It’s also very clean and tidy and good for businesses. Small businesses do really well here.”
Christiaan Jonkers, owner of rare books dealer Jonkers, described Henley as a quintessential market town. He added: “It’s popular because it is so unchanged. It’s timeless in a traditional sense. A relatively quiet, Thames-side town.”
Rachel Hollinrake, owner of Asquiths Teddy Bear Shop said Henley is especially lovely in the summer and recommended a river cruise with Hobbs of Henley, a family-run business which has been in boating for over 150 years.
Among Henley’s culinary and retail highlights, locals recommend the deli, Pavilion Foods, Gabriel Machin butcher’s, The Bell Bookshop, Berries Coffee, The Catherine Wheel, The Bull on Bell Street pub and Italian restaurant, Villa Marina.
Dr Redley said: “Henley is a small market town on a rather spectacular place on the river. You are guaranteed a warm welcome.”
Trains from London depart from Paddington Station and take about 50 minutes, with a change at Twyford. It takes minutes to walk from Henley-on-Thames station to the river or Market Place, which is at the heart of the town.
The frequency of train services from London make it an ideal day-trip from London. There are also regular services from Reading, which is the nearest large town. Trains take about 30 minutes from here while it is 20 minutes by car.
Typical parking prices are between £2.10 and £3.50 for up to three hours or £6.00 to £11.70 for a full day. There is an hour’s free parking in the town centre’s car parks.
According to Right Move, the average house prices over the last year were £775,600. Sold prices were up 1% on the previous year and similar to the peak of £780,544 in 2023. The most popular properties were terraced houses, selling for an average £656,419.
