When it comes to remote locations, Svalbard is about as far-away as they get. This tiny archipelago is nested between Norway and the North Pole, perched right at the very top of the Arctic Circle and to live here, you need to be tough.
During the winter, temperatures can dip to -35C and the wind chill can be brutal. In the winter, polar night takes over and the sun never rises, and in the summer, every day is lit with the midnight sun. It’s home to just 2,528 people, most of whom live in the main town of Longyearbyen – and around 300 polar bears. Svalbard is undeniably beautiful, but this beauty is untamed, and needs to be treated with caution.
Mats McCombe has lived on Svalbard for the last 18 years and works as a tour guide for Hurtigruten – a Nordic cruise company that has been running since 1893.
He told The Express that he was originally only going to stay on the island for a year – but almost two decades later, he is still there and loves it just as much as he did on his first day.
Mats said: “The Arctic nature is magnificent. You can show how many videos and pictures to your friends, family, and colleagues, back home but they truly don’t realize how fantastic it is before you arrive here. You have to see it with your own eyes.”
The beauty of Svalbard is laid out right at Mats’ doorstep with mountains just five minutes from his home. In under half an hour, he can be in the wilderness.
He said: “You feel that you’re completely alone in the Arctic because you can’t see anything but nature.”
This level of remoteness comes with a great responsibility. Svalbard is a harsh place to live and if you don’t have the right knowledge, you can easily find yourself in trouble.
Polar bears and their rights
One of the laws that the residents of Svalbard live by is the right to bear arms – and arm against bears. If you are planning to travel outside the settlements of the islands, then the office of the Governor of Svalbard insists you carry a “suitable means” of frightening off polar bears – namely a gun.
Mats said: “ A polar bear is just like a dog. It’s got its own personality. Some are interested, Some are really scared by humans. you have to always remember that when you’re confronted with a polar bear. I’ve had plenty of confrontations but fortunately I have never been in a situation where I had to shoot towards a bear.”
He said he carries a pistol which fires flash bangs, as well as a high powered rifle or a high calibre pistol – just in case.
It’s not just bears that pose a threat – Mats said the environment of Svalbard is much more likely to kill you.
“You have to, of course, respect the polar bear, but you also have to very much respect nature because it kills more humans than the polar bear. [Things like] crossing sea ice, avalanches and hypothermia during the winter.”
It is also common practice for people in Longyearbyen to leave their homes and cars unlocked. Partially, this is because crime on Svalbard is so low, but also because if you are surprised by a polar bear on the high street, you have somewhere to run to.
Mats said in the nine years he has lived in his home on the island he has never once locked his door – in fact, he doesn’t even know where his keys are.
His car stays unlocked too. It is rare that bears come into the settlements, but it does happen so it’s good to give people a chance to get away.
Mats said: “In my 17 years living here there’s been maybe four or five times that the polar bear comes into town, and it usually happens during the dark periods like in November, December and January. Because there’s very little traffic going out of town it’s easy for them to get closer to the town.”
Life and death on Svalbard
Svalbard has often been the victim of misinformation – it is commonly said that it is illegal to die on the island but this is not true. Obviously, Governments have no control over how or when their people die – but it is true that you cannot be buried on the island.
Because of the intense cold and permafrost on the island, your body would not ever decompose and there is a risk of harmful viruses and diseases being permanently preserved.
Mats said that the idea you cannot die on the island is false – but if you did die, there would be a process to remove your body to the mainland. If you do want to be “buried” on the island, you must first be cremated and then an urn with your remains can be interred, with the blessing of the governor and priest.
For this same reason, it is recommended that anyone who is pregnant and close to their due date leaves the island to give birth on the mainland. Although there is a hospital on the island that could assist in a premature birth, it certainly isn’t ideal and so people are strongly recommended to travel to the mainland at least one month before their due date to ensure the proper level of care.
How to visit
Despite its remote location and small population, Svalbard enjoys a thriving tourism industry and access to the archipelago is surprisingly easy. Flights go daily from Oslo, and there is also the option of cruises which travel up and down the coast of Norway.
Once on the island, there is no shortage of guided tours which will take you out of the settlements and show you the wide open wilderness. These tours will also have the added bonus of being armed against bears – so you don’t need to worry about getting on the wrong side of the Government by dying on the island without even living there.
Mats said the best thing for tourists to know is to never go anywhere without a guide.
“Bring the right equipment, have local knowledge, know where you’re travelling. Always report to someone that you know in town, where you’re going and when you’re coming back. That’s our number one rule, polar bears are very dangerous, but the nature can be quite dangerous as well.”