Had to do one of those jump pics – can you blame me with this view? (Image: Katie Gault)
In an era where holidays are timed to the minute and selfies replace sightseeing, I wanted something slower – a moment to breathe. I found that in the Swiss Alps, where train carriages move at a meditative pace and the scenery rolls by like a living painting.
Switzerland is famous for its rail journeys, and while I’d seen the viral videos of carriages cruising through snowy peaks, I never really stopped to ask: where are these trains actually going?
As it turns out, one such route leads you to Davos, the highest town in Europe, perched 1,560 metres above sea level in the stunning canton of Graubünden. Tucked away in the Rhaetian Alps and famous for hosting the World Economic Forum each year, Davos is a place where modern charm meets alpine tradition – and it’s even better when you arrive slowly.
On every SWISS flight, all passengers receive a “Schöggeli,” a small chocolate. (Image: Katie Gault)
My journey began at Heathrow Airport, boarding a Swiss Air flight to Zurich. Return flights from London to Zurich with Swiss Air cost as little as £100 when booked in advance, and with just 90 minutes in the air, we landed mid-morning in Zurich, where the excitement of the Women’s Euros filled the terminal.
From there, my slow-travel experience truly began – a three-hour train journey into the Alps awaited.
The first leg, from Flughafen Zürich to Zürich HB, was swift – a quick transition from airport to city station. But as we boarded the next train bound for Landquart, the landscape began to whisper promises of something magical.
The journey toward Landquart (Image: Katie Gault)
Davos is a popular winter sports destination, boasting one of Switzerland’s largest ski resorts. (Image: Katie Gault)
As we pulled away from Zurich, the scenery began its slow transformation.
Children played by lake shores, summer homes with wooden docks dotted the water’s edge, and tiny boats rocked gently beneath a soft sun. Suddenly, the train ducked into a tunnel – and when we emerged, there it was: a lake as blue as opalite, so brilliant it looked almost surreal.
From there, it was all rolling hills, wooden Swiss chalets, and distant snow-kissed peaks. I watched as farms blurred by, a slower life unfolding outside my window. The train moved with purpose, but never rushed – just enough to catch a wave from a smiling hiker or a local out on their porch.
Landquart serves as a vital transport hub and the primary entry point to the Graubünden region (Image: Katie Gault)
Landquart, our changeover stop, sits where the Rhine flows from the Alps – a picturesque town with a history as a trading post, now a hub for hikers and skiers. We stayed no more than 10 minutes before boarding the final leg to Davos Platz.
This part of the journey was longer, but I hardly noticed. As the Alps grew larger, the towns smaller, and the tracks narrower, I realised we were rising. Stone bridges curved over gorges, sheep dotted the hillsides, and the air outside the windows began to change – cooler, crisper.
Swiss rail passes start from just £62 per day, and the scenery you get for that price is worth every penny.
There’s a rooftop bar with panoramic views of the Alps—one of the best vantage points in Davos. (Image: Katie Gault )
We arrived in Davos, checking into the Hard Rock Hotel Davos, a stylish stay with a twist. Housed in the historic Alexander House – first built in 1882 – it’s the first Hard Rock Hotel in continental Europe, and a surprisingly perfect fit for the alpine setting.
Inside, it’s chic but cosy – vintage memorabilia from legends like Michael Jackson and Taylor Swift line the walls, while outside, you’re treated to views that quite literally take your breath away. From my room, a dense pine-covered mountain loomed so high, I felt I was floating in the clouds.
Dinner that night was in the hotel – warm, hearty, and exactly what I needed after a long day of travel.
Some things are worth the buzz. This spa was one of them. (Image: Katie Gault)
The next day was all about relaxation. After a long journey, I let the spa work its magic – including a massage that reset both body and mind.
That evening, I dressed for dinner at La Martina, a stunning spot known for its fresh alpine cuisine and calming ambiance.With soft lighting, mountain views through the windows, and that signature Swiss hospitality, it was one of those meals you don’t want to end.
Dinner here felt high-end, but mains started from just £15 – and came with a view that would cost extra anywhere else.
The next morning, we headed to Davos Platz station to catch the historic train to Filisur – a route that felt straight out of a fairytale.
Our view from our table at la Martina. (Image: Katie Gault)
the historic train to Filisur (Image: Katie Gault )
The weather had turned moody – not gloomy, but comforting. That soft twilight-in-autumn haze cloaked the mountains as we rode past ancient stone viaducts, rolling meadows, and baby sheep grazing at the edge of forests. The carriage windows misted slightly, only adding to the dreamlike feel.
This wasn’t just a train journey – it was a passage through a forgotten world.
After returning to Davos, we took a short bus ride up to Walserhuus Sertig, a restaurant perched high in the Alps, tucked beneath peaks with a working railway tucked behind it. Wooden interiors, slow-cooked food, and a view that stops conversations – it’s the kind of place that makes you whisper, even though there’s no need to.
That evening, we returned to town for dinner at a local restaurant, where the food was hearty and traditional – think rösti, alpine cheese, and local wines – a satisfying way to wind down.
Quarter way up Jakobshorn… legs said no, views said yes. (Image: Katie Gault)
On our final day, with our evening train not due for hours, we set out on a hike up Jakobshorn. This peak, more known for skiing in winter, is a summer hiking haven, with trails that wind through alpine meadows and offer panoramic views of the valley below.
There’s something poetic about ending a trip with a hike – one final inhale of mountain air before returning to the world below.
Bags collected, we retraced our train route, hearts full and minds clearer, arriving back in Zurich and eventually home to London.
One of Jakobshorn’s most-photographed spots – A perfectly placed wooden frame near the summit (Image: Katie Gault)
View from the top of Jakobshorn (Image: Katie Gault)
Davos may be Europe’s highest town, but it’s not the altitude that leaves you lightheaded – it’s the beauty, the peace, the sheer stillness of it all. It felt every bit like a luxury holiday, yet we easily kept our total spend below what we’d pay for a long weekend in Cornwall. Most of our entertainment came free: scenic hikes, slow train rides, and watching the sun slip behind the mountains.
If you’re looking for a trip that’s as much about the journey as the destination, this slow route into the clouds might just be your perfect escape.