There’s no doubt that weight loss jabs are producing dramatic transformations in the 1.5 million Britons estimated to use them. But as celebrities including Robbie Williams, Gemma Collins and Scott Disick have shown, they can have a side-effect – so-called ‘Ozempic face’.
The sagging skin, extra wrinkles and gaunt features that can come with any rapid weight loss don’t look good, but you don’t need surgery or skin therapies to fight these changes. By understanding the science of healthy skin, you can cut the risk of ‘Ozempic face’. A healthy diet, the right nutrients and sun protection will help too.
Deep and meaningful
Our skin has three layers – the outer epidermis, the dermis, a thicker middle layer cushioned by collagen, elastin and moisture-retaining hyaluronic acid, and the inner hypodermis largely made up of fat and connective tissue. Dr Nisa Aslam, a GP interested in skin health, says: “Most moisturisers smooth and hydrate skin cells on the surface – but for fine lines and wrinkles, products must help replenish hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin.”
What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid is the must ingredient in skincare products. It is a natural humectant – the dermatological term for this type of super-hydrator. Dr Nisa says: “Most moisturisers are emollients that protect the skin barrier, or humectants which draw moisture into the skin. You want a product that does both.” Hyaluronic acid (HA) is in the skin, eyes and connective tissue such as cartilage and it attracts and traps moisture. The body contains around 15g of HA, with about a third in skin. Each gram can absorb up to six litres of water helping to create volume and support skin structures. But our ability to produce HA declines with age and as levels fall, or we lose weight and fat, the skin loses elasticity, hence fine lines and wrinkles. Dr Nisa says, “Anything that increases hyaluronic acid will boost hydration, reduce signs of ageing and improve dull sagging skin from weight loss.”
Molecules matter
How deeply HA is absorbed is determined by its chemical structure and molecular weight. These attributes will also influence how it interacts with other skin components.
A study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology showed HAs with a higher weight stayed on the surface, while medium weight HA penetrated more deeply. Double-blind placebo controlled trials also confirmed that sodium acetylated hyaluronic penetrated more deeply than other HAs. One study showed it reduced the breakdown of collagen, protected skin structure and reduced wrinkles in 28 days. Another found sodium acetylated HA raised skin elasticity by 160% in four weeks and boosted skin hydration in two hours.
Best buys?
Dr Nisa says “Forbest benefits, find a product with sodium acetylated hyaluronic acid alongside other forms of HA. It will ensure maximum penetration as well as good hydration at the skin’s surface. “You don’t have to spend a fortune. I’m a big fan of the Hada Labo Tokyo range – premium skincare at high-street prices (HLT Lotion Intense 7xHA Super Deep Hydrator £16.05, Amazon) Japan is a world leader in skincare research, and Hada Labo means ‘skin lab’ in Japanese.
“They have developed seven forms of HA with five molecular weights. Hada Labo Tokyo comes in three lines designed to support skin at different times of life.” The white line was developed for younger skin, and depending on the product will contain three or four different HAs. The red line has four HAs alongside retinol and collagen, and the premium gold line has up to seven HAs for maximum hydration — and maximum impact.
Collagen counts
Collagen is a naturally occurring protein added to some skincare products — including Hada Labo Tokyo’s anti-ageing super hydrator lotion and anti-ageing night repair cream — and is also available as a supplement.
The International Journal of Molecular Sciences reports that topical collagen produced “significant improvements in skin wrinkles, elasticity, and density” in four weeks. And journal Dermatology Practical and Conceptual says: “Both oral and topical collagen can contribute to reducing or delaying skin ageing.”
Dr Janine David, a GP and member of the Hada Labo Tokyo expert hub, says: “Collagen gives the skin structure and elasticity, but our ability to produce it falls by around one per cent a year. It can also be depleted by pollution, smoking and UV radiation.”
Foods rich in collagen include stewing steak, bone broth and foods such as jellies which contain gelatin. High protein fish, poultry, meat, dairy, soy and pulses also contain amino acids the body uses to build collagen.
Tea-riffic
“Persistent low-level dehydration will magnify the effects of Ozempic face and ageing,” warns Dr Tim Bond, a research chemist and member of the Tea Advisory Panel. “Tea provides hydration and also contains polysaccharides and antioxidant polyphenols which help protect skin.” Studies confirm these plant chemicals promote production of hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin and some protection against UV radiation.
Avoid skin slayers
For glowing skin, eat a diet high in antioxidant fruit and vegetables and healthy omega-3s fats, get plenty of sleep and avoid excess alcohol and smoking. Dr Janine David says: “Use a high-factor sunscreen which has hyaluronic acid, a pleasant smell and is easy to apply – as you will be more likely to use it regularly.”
Exercise for elasticity
Thirty minutes of daily face yoga has been shown to improve fullness in the cheeks and lower face in 20 weeks. Dr Nisa says: “There are lots of videos on techniques, but all involve gentle movements, stretches and massaging motions which release tension and gently work the facial muscles.”
- The Hada Labo Tokyo skincare range is available at Superdrug or online at Amazon and mentholatum.co.uk