Ever since I was little, I have enjoyed graveyards. I know it sounds a little bit macabre, but having grown up around the corner from the second largest graveyard in the southern hemisphere (Waikumete Cemetery in Auckland, New Zealand) I have spent more time than most among the dead.
I like studying the family histories on the headstones and thinking about how they might have lived, and I have always found them to be calming places. When I moved to London last year, I quickly discovered that peace and quiet is hard to come by. Not only do the streets teem with life, but even places like parks, museums and art galleries are often crammed full of tourists exploring which means a constant buzz of talking and laughter is a fact of life.
It can be nice to be surrounded by people, but if you need an escape, I have found the perfect, peaceful spot. Not only is it a fascinating slice of history but its labyrinthine pathways are filled with trees and flowers that make it one of the most beautiful places I have seen in the city.
I’m talking about Highgate Cemetery – one of the most famous graveyards in the world. It’s where Karl Marx is buried, as well as George Eliot and George Michael among many other famous people – and it’s also a stunning place to explore.
I headed to the cemetery last week on a sunny Saturday morning and bought my ticket. The cemetery is split into two halves. In the West side, the paths are winding and overgrown with gravesites dating back to 1838. The cemetery is built up into the hillside, and wandering up its paths you feel like you could be a million miles away from the city.
Despite its popularity – there were dozens of people there on the day I visited – the cemetery was completely peaceful. There was no buzz of busy tourists, just hushed whispers and the occasional burst of bird song coming down from the branches that dappled sunlight onto the grassy floor.
The west side of Highgate Cemetery is overflowing with graves, and in some places nature is beginning to reclaim them. It’s easy to find yourself lost among the trees, without anyone else in sight – a truly rare experience in London.
The east side, where the famous grave of Karl Marx lies, is more manicured but no less beautiful. Here the paths are straighter but the same tree cover and peace and quiet has seeped into every step.
All in all, I spent about two hours at the cemetery. It was the first place I have found in the city that truly is calm and peaceful. Tickets for both sides of the cemetery cost £10 and you can also add a guided tour to that if you so desire. Although this time I didn’t choose a tour, I do think that when I go back I will – it would be fascinating to hear about the history of the space from the experts.