Italy’s Amalfi Coast has long since been synonymous with seaside sophistication – but there’s an equally chic alternative that gets far fewer foreign tourists.
A hundred miles north of Rome, Porto Ercole is surrounded by azure waters.
This charming coastal town is on the Monte Argentario promontory, which is essentially an island attached to the Tuscany coastline by sand bars and a bridge.
It’s long been a favoured destination for Italy’s elite – but remains relatively unknown to foreigners.
Consequently, it offers a quieter, more intimate alternative to the bustling Amalfi Coast.
It has a more relaxed atmosphere than Amalfi and retains the charm of a traditional Italian fishing village – which makes it the perfect destination for those seeking serenity and authenticity. It’s a picturesque harbour town with historic Spanish fortresses, cozy streets – and connections to Caravaggio.
The Renaissance and Baroque painter ended up in Porto Ercole after killing a gangster called Ranuccio Tommasoni in Rome in 1606. Caravaggio would die in the town four years later – although the cause of his death remains a matter of some dispute.
Vatican documents released in 2002 suggest that the powerful Tomassoni family orchestrated Caravaggio’s assassination as an act of vengeance.
This vendetta stemmed from Caravaggio’s killing of Tomassoni – in a failed attempt at castration – following a duel over the affections of the model Fillide Melandroni.
This fascinating tale is just part of Porto Ercole’s rich history. The town boasts three fortresses that date back to the 16th century – all three of these provide stunning views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the town’s stunning beaches.
While Amalfi’s beaches are often crowded, Porto Ercole boasts quieter, more secluded spots. Indeed, the entire Monte Argentario promontory is surrounded by the crystal-clear waters of a lagoon and the Mediterranean – and is dotted with hidden coves accessible by boat.
Its dramatic cliffs, Mediterranean vegetation and panoramic views make it a paradise for nature lovers.
The Lagoon of Orbetello is a unique coastal wetland that is home to wild pink flamingos and other migratory birds, making it ideal for birdwatching and photography.
The town also makes for a convenient base from which to explore the Tuscan countryside – and nearby islands like Giglio and Giannutri, or charming towns like Orbetello and Capalbio.
The area is great for hiking and cycling too, with trails offering panoramic views of the Tuscan Archipelago. It’s heaven for seafood lovers – family-run trattorias serve authentic, seasonal dishes focusing on freshly caught fish and local Tuscan wines.
Porto Ercole combines the allure of Tuscany’s countryside with coastal beauty. As a bonus, accommodations and dining options are often more reasonably priced than in overcrowded Amalfi.
