Ever since the first human questioned, “Why eat animals when we don’t need to?”, powerful interests have tried to undermine vegan living. Like every social justice movement, it attracts its share of detractors – some who just seem to love hating vegans. The latest spin? A flurry of schadenfreude-laced stories implying that vegan eating is declining. It might make a good headline, but it’s a false narrative. More accurately, what we’re witnessing is vegan foods’ move from fringe to mainstream. When it was once a novelty to find falafel on a menu, more inventive animal-free fare, from vegan pepperoni pizza to juicy vegan cheeseburgers, is now commonplace.
When Greggs launched their Vegan Sausage Roll (20,000 people signed PETA’s friendly petition), there was a media frenzy. Greggs enjoyed a 58% profit increase following the launch of its vegan sausage roll. KFC’s vegan burger enjoyed sales 500% higher than typical launches. At the time, the novelty of these launches led to the hype, but the vegan foodscape is now more sophisticated, varied, and in demand.
Vita Mojo’s 2024 analysis of over 139 million quick-service restaurant orders revealed a 56 per cent surge in demand for vegan dishes last year. The global vegan food market, valued at US $22.38 billion, is expected to grow to US $55.88 billion by 2034.
Fine dining is also riding the wave. Michelin-starred chef Alexis Gauthier, who adopted a 100% vegan menu at London’s Gauthier Soho in 2021, has since expanded to open two more all-vegan locations, Studio Gauthier and 123V.
Retailers, too, are stocking shelves with more vegan options than ever. Lidl just announced it has surpassed its 400% sales target of own-label meat-free and animal-free milk by 2025, reaching a 694% increase.
Last Christmas saw a 280% boom in animal-free festive food, while ALDI declared its 2025 Veganuary range the biggest yet. Companies that long ago recognised the value in vegan eating and committed to servicing its growth are still reaping the rewards. You only have to browse supermarket shelves to fact-check the narrative for yourself.
The thing about “trends” is that, once they’re widely adopted and integrated into society, they leave the headlines and join the zeitgeist.
Those who treat one chef’s return to meat – because his imagination ran dry – as a “gotcha” moment miss the point. The real goal has always been for vegan food to move into the mainstream.
In the same way PETA staff would celebrate being out of a job if it meant animal exploitation had ended, the move from niche vegan products to household brands is a win. It shows growing concern for animals and the planet.
And let’s not forget, business is tough for everyone right now. Declaring vegan eating “dead” because of a few changes isn’t just dramatic – it’s false.
Take this week’s headline: Chef Heston Blumenthal called for government action to save Britain’s pubs, which are struggling under rising costs and shifting social habits. Yet no one declared “Pubs close due to the end of the meat hype”. We all know, though, that if it were a vegan pub shutting down, that would be the headline.
In a time of misinformation, social media misrule and clickbait, it pays to question what you read. Vegans are no longer bottlenecked at the salad bar.
Demand for ethically aligned, health-forward choices remains strong, and while compassionate consumers may be more discerning, they’re not going anywhere. After all, kindness isn’t a fad.
Dawn Carr is Vice President of Vegan Corporate Projects at People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, PETA