Reporter Lucy Marshall spent the day on the Northern Belle, travelling from Yorkshire to Edinburgh a (Image: Lucy Marshall)
At 8am on a Thursday morning, the sound of bagpipes fills the air at Wakefield Westgate station, where a crowd of elegantly dressed mothers, daughters, grandparents, and couples eagerly await the arrival of the opulent Northern Belle train. As steam billows from the locomotive, it comes to a majestic stop.
The passengers’ faces light up with joy as the staff, donned in traditional railway attire, roll out red carpets emblazoned with the train’s logo, welcoming them aboard the sumptuous carriages named after British castles and stately homes. I’m swept up in the moment, feeling like royalty and anticipating my first glass of champagne.
As someone accustomed to the more mundane aspects of train travel, including cancellations, noisy fellow travellers, and delays, the prospect of indulging in this lavish journey, often flaunted by celebrities and influencers online, was particularly enticing. What better occasion to splurge on such luxury than for my sister’s 30th birthday?
Friends and family had sung praises of the train’s “amazing” experience, urging that it’s an absolute must. With tickets costing a hefty £550 each, my expectations were sky-high.
The deluxe train takes passengers on rides to racecourses, castles, seaside towns, and more. We were travelling from West Yorkshire to Edinburgh, where we would also experience a tour of the Royal Yatch Britannia. The train picked up passengers from Huddersfield, Wakefield and York. It was due to also stop at Leeds but due to a fault [shock] this stop was taken off the pick up list.
After a wonderful greeting, I was seated in the Harlech carriage – the last one. If you are with a group, you will be put in a four booth seat, while couples were sat at a two-seater table at the other side.
Boarding and breakfast
The train is decked out with ornate wood panelling, plush chairs with cosy cushions, and tables dressed in crisp white tablecloths, the finest silverware, crockery, and glassware. It looked absolutely stunning and felt like I had stepped straight into the set of a period drama.
The train seats were so comfy and felt like I was sat in an arm chair. Staff immediately came over to ask what breakfast cocktail we would like – either mimosa or a bloody Mary.
We were presented with a bowl of fruit and yogurt which was a perfectly light and delicious start, before enjoying as many chocolate and plain croissants as we wanted, as well as mini muffins. Plus, staff served tea and coffee from Fortnum and Mason in beautiful china cups. While enjoying all this, we selected our cooked breakfast options which were served a short while later.
We also loved that a magician came round and performed tricks which left us totally baffled and wowed. The views from the train up to Scotland were amazing to see and I also observed the toilets were clean and enjoyed the White Company hand cream and luxury of using cotton hand towels instead of tissue or a dryer.
A breakfast starter of yogurt and fruit on board the Northern Belle (Image: Lucy Marshall)
We were mesmerised by the amazing views we had while enjoying breakfast (Image: Lucy Marshall)
Four-hour stop in Edinburgh
After arriving at Edinburgh station, stuff with champagne and delicious food, we got on a a private transfer from Waverley Station to Leith, before our tour of the Royal Britannia.
For some 40 years, the magnificent Royal Yacht Britannia cruised round the world carrying the late Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh on 968 State visits. They sailed more than a million miles, entertaining impressed prime ministers, presidents and foreign monarchs, while keeping the flag flying for Great Britain, before it stopped sailing in 1997.
It was also used for a pre-wedding party in July, 2011 as the extended Royal Family joined Zara Phillips and Mike Tindall for a cocktail party on board.
I loved seeing the staff quarters on board and we could not get over the size of the bed that the Queen and Prince Phillip would stay in. The beds looked like they were made for children. It was totally fascinating and we had a hand held phone which provided informative information. I loved hearing about the Queen’s favourite places on board and seeing the dining room where they held important dinners.
If you are a royal fan, keen sailor or love history, you will really enjoy it. Those on board the Northern Belle who weren’t keen on this spent the four hour break from the train exploring Scotland’s capital city instead.
I can’t believe the late Queen also stood here on the Royal Britannia (Image: Lucy Marshall)
I loved visiting the Royal Yacht Britannia (Image: Lucy Marshall)
Six-course meal and evening experience
The Northern Belle looks even more beautiful at night time as the lamps inside make it look magical.
We got back on the train for more champagne before a sumptuous six-course dinner with fine wines on our memorable journey home.
Then we ordered our three main courses at the start of the journey, as well as selecting the bottle of wine we would share to accompany each course and our selection of port to go with the cheese course. I opted for the Lishman’s of Ilkley Ham, Hock Terrain, followed by the Terroir et Saisons slow-braised daube, and finished off with Eton Mess of Annabel Strawberries.
While waiting for a main course we enjoyed a selection of canapés – including Yorkshire Asparagus Donut, British Raj Chicken, and Royal Siberian Baerii Caviar. The caviar canape was by far my favourite; it was salty and delicious.
I couldn’t quite believe how amazing the quality of food was on a train. Haven eaten in plenty of high end and Michelin-starred restaurants, this meal was up there thanks to the fantastic presentation, incredible flavours, and quality.
But the star of the show was yet to come – the cheeseboard. Oh my, the size of the board was as big as the tables. It was simply a cheeselover’s dream. We had the choice of Batch Clothbound Cheddar, Duke of Wellington Blue, Flat Capper Brie and Sheffield Forge. Of course I tried them all. There was also a choice of different crackers, jams and chutneys.
The selection of canapes served onboard (Image: Lucy Marshall)
I was in cheese heaven (Image: Lucy Marshall)
Around this time, a two-man band came around and played music at each seats. This was super fun and got everyone clapping together on the train which was really sweet. While fabulous, they only did one song at each seat. Throughout the rest of the journey both travelling to and from Edinburgh there was no music. So I think considering it is listed as part of it they could have the band play for longer or put on some classical music on in the background.
The evening was finished off with us ordering espresso and porn star martinis. I was shocked not all drinks were including within the price. While it was great to shared a bottle of wine, and that is enough, throughout the rest of the long journey if you want a drink you have to pay extra for it. To be honest I think this is pretty appalling when you are paying £550 I think the price should cover all drinks for the day.
Overall I absolutely loved this experience and was totally wowed. It has also made me want to try other fancy train rides too. It’s a brilliant way to not only enjoy luxury, spend a long period of time having fun with friends, a partner or family, but it also allows you to see new places.
While I think it is totally justified it’s an expensive experience, I do think £350-£400 would be a more appropriate amount for what we got on the day. If they included all drinks and provided more entertainment I believe it would be worth the full price.
But would I ride it again? Absolutely.
Would you pay this much to ride a train? Comment below.