One of the UK’s cities has been described as having the best pubs in Britain, and it is expanding its boozy reputation even further. Pint-sized St Albans is arguably Britain’s best city for pubs. With one of the highest densities of pubs per square mile in the country, it’s renowned for its wealth of historic hostelries – some dating back centuries – and its uniquely varied, characterful drinking scene.
St Albans Museum + Gallery is inviting people to step back in time to the late nineteenth century, when St Albans was home to nearly one hundred commercial drinking establishments, thanks to a new exhibition: Inns & Alehouses in Victorian St Albans. Inspired by the 1884 verse The City Pubs, composed by ‘Baron’ Martin, the exhibition uncovers the stories behind the city’s vibrant drinking culture. The lively composition lists 92 drinking locations – all within a one-kilometre radius of the museum – many of which are brought to life through stories, objects, photographs and Victorian memorabilia.
David Thorold, Curator at St Albans Museums, said: “Of the 92 establishments mentioned in the verse, 30 are still open today – and remarkably, St Albans has about the same number of pubs now as it did 200 years ago. It’s a testament to how well our pubs have adapted and stood the test of time.”
The exhibition shines a light on St Albans’ diverse venues – from bustling beerhouses to cosy taverns – and explores the social and cultural forces that shaped their fortunes as the city moved into the twentieth century.
Thorold continues: “While the world around them has changed, pubs continue to innovate and respond to their ever-evolving environment. Their ability to reinvent themselves while remaining at the heart of social life is what makes them such enduring fixtures in communities across the UK.”
Throughout the nineteenth century, St Albans’ inns and alehouses faced pressures from rapid social, cultural, and economic change. Improved road links brought more travellers through the town, but fewer stayed overnight as journeys became faster. The arrival of the railways diverted trade elsewhere, while new licensing laws saw an explosion of smaller, locally focused establishments. By the century’s end, the rise of the Temperance Movement sought to reduce or even end alcohol consumption altogether.
This exhibition explores how St Albans’ publicans and innkeepers navigated these challenges, revealing the resilience and ingenuity that defined the city’s pub culture in the Victorian era.
Farhana Begum, Arts, Tourism, Heritage and Culture Manager at St Albans City & District Council, and Head of St Albans Museums, said: “Inns & Alehouses in Victorian St Albans deepens our understanding of the city’s rich and complex past, exploring the places where people gathered to work, celebrate and connect. Through this exhibition, we’re able to reflect on how those social spaces helped shape the city we live and work in today – and invite visitors to see familiar streets and buildings in a new, thought-provoking yet delightful way.”
Lead Councillor for Heritage at St Albans City & District Council, Helen Campbell, said: “This exhibition showcases the remarkable pub culture of Victorian St Albans and the ingenuity of the publicans who helped shape it – their entrepreneurial spirit paved the way for the vibrant pub scene we enjoy today. We welcome visitors from near and far to discover the unique story of our pubs and to celebrate this proud legacy with us.”
Alongside the exhibition, visitors can enjoy a series of engaging talks, tours and events celebrating the city’s long and lively pub heritage.
Inns & Alehouses in Victorian St Albans is a free exhibition running from 28 November 2025 to 15 March 2026 at St Albans Museum + Gallery in the Keeper’s Galleries.