I took adults-only trip to one of UK’s best family holiday parks — everyone had 1 question | UK | Travel

Bluestone was recently named the number one holiday park in Wales and third in the entire UK by Which? Magazine for the third year running. 

This 5-star luxury holiday destination is set within 500 acres of glorious Welsh countryside near Narberth, Pembrokeshire, and easily rivals Center Parcs for British breaks. It’s hugely popular for summer holidays and weekend breaks, and families arrive in droves to enjoy a wide array of facilities, including a subtropical indoor water park and a pastel-coloured village with a pub, playground, cafes, and a shop.

I’d always wanted to visit, but there was one small issue: I don’t have children. “Who goes to a holiday park without kids?” my bewildered parent friends asked. “What’s even there for you?”

That’s what I was about to find out, on what I told myself was a serious journalistic assignment and not, in fact, an excuse for a weekend away in Pembs.

We came in the off-season, when the unpredictable Welsh weather could go either way, and the question was simple: would Bluestone feel awkward for adults on a child-free break or could two grown-ups have a perfectly lovely time without a single Jellycat in sight?

After a breezy two-hour journey from Cardiff, the drive up check-in was impressively quick and efficient. I was expecting 4-mile tailbacks getting in.

Guests can enjoy the site’s facilities from 11am, which breaks up arrivals and is ideal for parents desperate to plonk the kids in the pool after an arduous car journey. We were directed to the ‘arrivals lodge’, where a smiling staff team presented us with our key cards and digital welcome pack and sent us off for our golf cart briefing and collection.

We’d been assigned one of the resort’s fancier options, the Solva Lodge, located in a quiet, suburb-like corner of the park dotted with colourful cottages and large cabin-style lodges. The resort’s accommodation offerings really have considered every group size and budget.

Our swish, single-storey lodge frankly surpassed my expectations. It had spacious open-plan living, bi-fold doors, a master bedroom with an en-suite, and a private patio.

It also had a well-equipped kitchen complete with everything one could need for self-catering, from ample plates and cooking utensils to a dishwasher and microwave. I couldn’t wait to assemble a bougie charcuterie board.

Frankly, it was way fancier than I was expecting from a British holiday park. As an elder millennial, most of my holiday park experience came in the form of a bargain, caravan-style ‘Sun Holiday’, paid for in tokens from the paper. 

Before we could even unpack, we needed a game plan. Where does one begin in a vast holiday park filled with family-friendly activities?

Do you hit the waterpark first? Or stake out the spa for a soak and a glass of fizz? We compromised, a slow exploratory lap around the resort in the golf buggy, waving at fellow guests, like giddy retirees on a joyride.

You’ll need a buggy to get around the largely car-free site. Bluestone is enormous, with lakes, woodland, an activity ‘hive’, a tropical pool, and a cutesy pastel-coloured village to navigate. Just be sure to follow the one-way system, or you’ll have to reverse up a hill at 5 miles an hour like we had to.

After unpacking, we decided to brave the pool for our first ‘holiday activity’ and braced ourselves for battling with kids for first dibs on the flumes.

Bluestone’s ‘Subtropical Paradise’ is one of the resort’s main highlights, and it’s easy to see why. Cocooned by a wooden roof shaped like an upturned coracle, it’s a balmy all-weather hub with a large, temperature-controlled pool, a lazy river, flumes, spa pools and a ‘Nippers Cove’ for the kids.

For families, there are bookable swim classes, including ‘water babies’ for children under three, and there’s a lively ‘pirate takeover’ with music and inflatables that sounds joyous.

Kids who are confident swimmers can also try the popular ‘Merschool’, where they’ll be transformed into mermaids. I was tempted to ask what the age limit was. 

We arrived at the pool in the late afternoon, peak time for throwing the kids in the waves to burn off energy, so we fully expected a ‘last days of Rome’ situation, but with more rubber rings.

We were pleasantly surprised that several adults appeared to be swimming without kids, and the ambience was very chill. It was really rather calm for a holiday resort pool, another bonus for visiting off-peak.

Admittedly, you can feel self-conscious at first, entering a vast family pool without a couple of kids in tow, but after the first rounds of waves, we were soon bobbing on the lazy river and doing half-assed lengths for ‘fitness’.

Outside, there were warm spa pools, where we sat with several parents who had stolen a few moments to enjoy blissful Cocomelon-free silence.

“I left them with their dad in the waves”, a mother whispered to me. “He’ll cope.” I nodded in solidarity, as if I, too, had a child somewhere being supervised by a bearded hipster dad with a pool noodle.

There were still children, obviously; it’s not suddenly an adults-only lido, but the ratio was in our favour. During our swim session, we witnessed no full-scale shrieking water fights, lifeguards shouting into megaphones, or pool evacuating ‘faecal incidents’.

There was just a gentle background soundtrack of splashing and kids having a marvellous time on the flumes. Off-peak Bluestone, it turns out, is remarkably chill, and we scheduled more ‘pool time’ into our weekend plans.

After the swim, it was naturally time for the pub, so we dropped the buggy back at the lodge (Bluestone frowns upon drink-driving golf carts) and walked to The Knights Tafarn, in the heart of the resort’s twee village.

Located near the kids’ playground, this pub has proper ‘family vibes’, with pub grub classics like burgers, curries, sausage and mash, along with a decent children’s menu.

We sat outside in the rare Welsh sunshine, sipping Bluestone’s own G&Ts (yup, they even make their own gin here) while a live reggae band jammed.

Children bopped along, jovial parents queued patiently for the very affordable hog roast, and the wholesome atmosphere was akin to a modern, middle-class version of Hi-de-Hi! No wonder families enjoy coming here.

There are several eating options at Bluestone, including Oak Tree Restaurant, which serves Italian classics “made with Welsh love,” the family-friendly Farmhouse Grill, and the nutrition-focused NRG Lab Café, located in the Hive.

Over at the Black Pool Mill, you’ll be treated to dishes created from some of Pembrokeshire’s best produce. Located off the Bluestone resort in leafy Minwear Wood, this ‘heritage dining experience’ was once the site of an 18th-century iron furnace and forge.

The Grade II* listed Georgian building was built to use water power to grind wheat for flour. Machinery inside the building was installed in 1901 and has been preserved as part of Pembrokeshire’s industrial heritage.

There is a selection of snacks, sandwiches, and small plates, utilising fresh produce and seasonal ingredients sourced from the local area. The standout, in my opinion, is the upscale Sunday Lunch, which starts at £26 for two courses that we decided to sample, for journalistic purposes.

Starters set the tone: beef cheek croquettes with lasagne mayo (yes, that’s a thing and yes, it works), parmesan crackling and red pepper, or courgette pakoras with lime pickle mayo, coriander and mango gel.

For meat lovers, the headline act is the roasted Welsh topside of beef: perfectly pink, as it should be. In my opinion, well-done beef is a culinary war crime and should lead to kitchen banishment.

My Yorkshire pudding was decently sized and accompanied by maple-glazed root vegetables, roast potatoes, seasonal greens, and swede and sweet potato mash. The gravy-to-meat ratio was also spot on, which, as far as I’m concerned, is the true test of any roast.

My husband opted for roasted Welsh pork loin with sausage and herb stuffing and declared it “the best decision I’ve ever made,” which I’m trying not to take personally.

Having been on many trips with kids present, I think the obvious bonus of an adults-only break is that you can eat when you want (I know, a radical concept).

There are no militant mealtimes dictated by toddlers who must dine at 5:01 sharp lest civilisation collapse. Instead, you can book a table for 8 p.m. and eat at a reasonable hour.

You’ll need to bring your appetite for this lunch. It was so filling that we cancelled our post-lunch swim in favour of a nap, which is possibly the most middle-aged sentence I’ve ever written.

Between coffee shop visits, walks and lazy mornings, we managed to fit in a few more ‘grown-up’ pursuits at Bluestone, starting with The Well Spa Retreat.

Delivered by an award-winning team of therapists, this swish spa is suitable for individuals 14 years old plus and is an indulgent escape for adults who need some me time. Upon arrival, you’re handed a towel and a plush robe, which immediately elevates you from holiday-goer to spa royalty.

This is where I find myself on a Saturday afternoon. Instead of emerging from under the duvet sporting a raging hangover like I used to in my 20s, I’m in a spa ‘sea salt cave’.

As much as I used to roll my eyes at anything I perceived as woo-woo, I’m now part of a growing cohort concerned with wellness, and instead of slamming sambuca shots, I now book sauna sessions and ice bath dips like a budget Gwyneth Paltrow. Nineteen-year-old me is judging so hard.

As a spa convert, I have to say I’m impressed. The Celtic Thermal Suite is clearly the centrepiece: a series of six interconnected pods that invite you to hop between hot, cold, and steamy experiences with your crew.

One minute you’re inhaling herbal scents in a steaming room, the next you’re rubbing ice over your limbs in the chilly ice Pod, before heading into a brick sauna or the intense Celtic Sauna infused with the subtle scent of Pembrokeshire bracken.

It’s a circuit designed to awaken, detoxify, and recalibrate your body, though, in practice, it mostly feels like gloriously permitted laziness. Mist, heat, ice, repeat, followed by a glass of fizz, for wellness.

During my sauna and steam hopping, my mind floated somewhere between a meditative state and a mild panic about whether my mascara was sliding off my face, as I had, of course, forgotten to remove it.

Every pore was open for business. I was sweating from places I didn’t even know had sweat glands. But I felt something like peace, or possibly dehydration, in that moment. Either way, it worked. I was full of zen and really in the market for a glass of prosecco or a very reasonably priced cocktail.

Want further indulgence? Treatments are an optional extra but worth every penny. You can book everything from bamboo massages and deluxe pedicures to signature massages, personalised facials, or the indulgent seaweed bath experience.

We chose the seaweed bath and emerged feeling fully human again, less swamp creature and more vaguely elegant adult. The bath is infused with Welsh sea salt and over eighty-five pure minerals, plus sustainably hand-harvested seaweed from the Pembrokeshire coast by Câr-y-Môr.

The experience detoxifies, improves skin tone, and moisturises like nothing else. It’s anti-ageing, anti-cellulite, and supremely relaxing, all in one steaming, mineral-rich tub. What a lovely treat.

Outside, the hydrotherapy pool is where the real magic happens. It has warm water, gentle jets, and, crucially, no children yelling “I did a wee in the pool.” It’s blissfully serene.

Around us, other adults were clearly unwinding too, even though the hen party was restrained, and no dodgy inflatables or body glitter were in sight.

For a while, the only soundtrack was the faint hum of jets, bubbles, and the occasional sigh of absolute contentment. By the time we left, slightly pruney and fully restored, it was obvious why the spa is a top highlight for Bluestone visitors.

Outside of the spa, there are other wholesome wellness activities to enjoy, including scenic woodland trails to stomp along. Clearly, as a holiday resort, most of the activities here are family-oriented. There is archery, laser tag, kayaking, biking and bowling.

Many activities are centred around ‘The Hive’, an indoor play and activity hub that will keep the kids entertained for hours. There’s messy play, soft play, a play tower, an airmaze, and a multi-court arena for ball games.

The Serendome is equally impressive. Housed under a giant transparent dome, this unique indoor-outdoor adventure play area offers high-thrill activities like an aerial ‘sky walk’ consisting of a climbing frame built over seven towers with 24 bespoke climbing stations spread across three levels.

As we passed by, I felt a pang of envy. Back in my day, ‘holiday park entertainment’ meant a patchy lawn, a rusty swing set, and a strong imagination. Serendome would have blown my mind as an eight-year-old.

We decided to try kayaking, as it seemed like the most appropriate activity without children in tow. Obviously, the ‘air maze’ would have been my first choice. It sounds bloody amazing.

Kayaking and SUP sessions take place on the serene waters of Bluestone’s private lake, which is surrounded by beautiful wildlife and woodland.

There was a strong family vibe as we set off from the dock, as endlessly patient parents guided cute and delightfully uncooperative kids around the lake. “No, we mustn’t stoke the ducks, Hugo.”

For experienced paddlers like us, it was a very tame session, but it’s clearly designed for beginners, so we just had a slow lap around, regretting our decision not to bring ‘gin tinnies’ aboard our vessels.

Of course, being near the coast, Blustone is ideally positioned for more high-octane activities like coasteering and sea kayaking. Just a short drive away, you’ll find a mile of coast path, secured bays, and plenty of activity companies offering equipment hire and even guided sessions.

As our time drew to a close, it was time for a verdict. I think that the beauty of Bluestone is that you don’t have to leave the site if you don’t want to. Everything is here.

Hop on a buggy, and you’re minutes away from woodland trails, a swimming pool, pubs, restaurants, a swanky spa, and a host of activities. Being car-free means it’s also very safe to let the little ones free-range if you’ve come with the family.

Spacious lodges and cottages also make this a great option for gathering your squad for a grown-up break with everything on site, especially if you’re looking for a spa escape where you can actually all stay together rather than in individual hotel rooms.

By the end of the weekend, I’d gone from mild sceptic to full Bluestone convert. What I’d assumed would be a glorified kids’ camp turned out to be a low-effort, high-reward getaway I didn’t realise I needed. It also turns out we’re not the only ones who think so.

According to the Bluestone team, so far this year, around 12.5% of all bookings (over 4,000) are adult-only, with no children or infants, which honestly really surprised me. I thought we would be in the minority, but it seems plenty of adults are living their best holiday park life.

Of course, it’s worth noting that the park is still very much geared towards families. The pools, activities, and the Hive are designed for little humans to run riot, and that’s part of its appeal.

But if you can accept a few shrieks in the distance, it’s quite nice to have a weekend in a lovely lodge, with a pool, spa, and pub all within walking or buggy distance. You can also plan as much or as little as you like, and the logistics that normally plague UK getaways are fairly seamless.

Price-wise, it’s probably on the higher end for a Welsh break, but there are ways to make it more palatable. Midweek breaks often come with good deals, and if you’re going as a group, splitting the cost of a lodge makes it surprisingly affordable. Bonus: without children, you don’t have to factor in the extra cost of activities, so there’s more cash for spa treatments. Win!

Honestly, I’m already plotting a return visit with the girls this time. The plan? Cheese, wine, robes, and absolutely no itinerary. Maybe the odd spa session, though, for wellness.

I think my main takeaway is that Bluestone isn’t just for families corralling small children into armbands and softplay sessions. They can also be for adults craving a low-stress break where the pool is warm, the pub is a short stroll away, and for a few days at least, dreary life admin and emails can be forgotten. I’m sold.

Portia Jones was a guest of Bluestone. For prices and booking, visit bluestonewales.com.