The French Riviera is often described as the jewel in the crown of France, with its breathtaking landscapes, culture, cuisine, charming villages and its “joie de vivre”. As a result, it often lists highly on bucket lists for European travel.
But more than 4,800 miles away on the south east coast of India, lies the beautiful city of Pondicherry, the capital and most populous city of the Union Territory of Puducherry.
Puducherry gained significance as “the French Riviera of the East” after the advent of French colonisation in India. The French ruled the region for 138 years, until 1954 when they left Indian shores following a de facto transfer of power.
Today, it is a place where bougainvillaea grow wild against the yellow walls of charming colonial bungalows, with cosy cafes which are buzzing with both backpackers and locals alike and the sound of waves crashing against Rock Beach.
These French former colonies, mostly spread along the coastlines, came to be known as “Établissements français dans l’Inde” or “French Establishments in India”.
Even today, the spoken language in Pondicherry is a blend of the local dialect and French, the cuisine draws on the flavours and fragrances of both indigenous ingredients and French tradition and the architecture has a distinctly European air about it.
The town of Pondicherry was divided into two parts, namely: the White Town or (“ville de Blanc”) and the Black Town (“ville de Noire”). The white town, situated close to the seashore, was meant for European settlement. The black town, located just west of the white town, was inhabited by the local Tamils.
The French Quarter retains beautiful, old French architecture, with street names including “Rue de la Marine” standing testimony of the bygone era.
Pondicherry is home to some of the finest churches in India. The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus is one of the most sacred places in Pondicherry and stands like an oriental version of Gothic architecture, with beautiful stained glass windows depicting the life of Jesus.
With its unique blend of cultures, Pondicherry is a paradise for food lovers. The Creole cuisine in Pondicherry is a true representation of how the authentic Tamil recipes are amalgamated with French cooking methods. It also has Portuguese, Dutch and even Vietnamese influences.
Pondicherry has a warm climate, but between October and March is the best time to visit, when the climate is cooler and more relaxed, perfect for sightseeing, beach days and water sports. Do not be surprised if you hear the occasional “Bonjour”, as people still speak French, as well as English with French accents.
Around 5,500 French citizens live in Puducherry, many of which are of Indian origin and chose to retain their French citizenship after the Indo-French Treaty. They can vote in French elections from within India, with the French government setting up polling stations in the region.
Many visitors to Pondicherry have sung their praises of Pondicherry on TripAdvisor, with one writing: “The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus is a Roman Catholic Basilica situated with the central city or old town of Pondicherry. This Basilica was built by French Missionaries back in the early 1900’s, and the architecture is a beautiful, colorful blend of French and Indian design.”
