It’s the perfect place for an autumn day out (Image: Nicola Roy)
A gorgeous coastal suburb located just a 15-minute journey from a major UK city deserves a place on your autumn travel list. Even now that the temperatures have dropped, a seaside trip is still an excellent way to unwind and clear your head, and the breathtaking views across the water are unbeatable.
Last October, I spent an amazing day exploring Portobello near Edinburgh during sunny but cold weather, and I’m genuinely annoyed with myself for not discovering it earlier. With a vibrant high street packed with independent shops, amazing food, and superb public transport links, it’s a perfect destination if you’re keen to explore somewhere a bit different. Just a 15-minute bus journey from the city centre brought us straight into the town’s centre, and it was instantly clear that this location was something special.
What immediately caught my attention about the beach was how clean it looked. It’s obvious that Portobello’s residents, or ‘Porty’ as it’s affectionately known locally, take great pride in maintaining their surroundings.
I wish I’d visited during the summer months, as I can imagine this being an ideal location for sunbathing and maybe even a swim in the sea.
Last year, Portobello was crowned the UK’s second-best coastal town by JoJo Maman Bebe, while its beach secured a Keep Scotland Beautiful award, which truly demonstrates its appeal.
Naturally, our first stop was an stroll along the waterfront. The conditions were pleasantly bright and sunny, but cold, and it was very refreshing following the hour-long train trip from Glasgow.
Portobello beach is beautiful and so clean (Image: Nicola Roy)
Portobello’s shoreline extends for two miles, featuring a Victorian promenade and panoramic views across the Firth of Forth. Given it was a bright Sunday morning, the area was fairly crowded, with many families enjoying walks and dogs happily racing about on the sand.
Following a walk along the beach, we’d built up quite an appetite. The seafront at Portobello beach features an array of eateries and pubs, from enormous pizza slices at Civerino’s to brunch and coffee at The Beach House.
Many places provide outdoor seating, allowing you to eat virtually on the beach, which was great to see.
We chose to visit Shrimp Wreck, a seafood spot with a small yet tempting menu. This street food stall rose to fame after appearing on BBC’s My Million Pound Menu and is celebrated for its fish finger sandwiches – it even reached the finals of the Birds Eye Fish Finger Sandwich Awards in 2017.
The fish finger sandwich was to die for (Image: Nicola Roy)
Naturally, I went for the dish that had caused such excitement. The battered flaky fish fillets, mushy peas and the best chips I’ve ever tried, all nestled in a soft roll, was arguably the messiest thing I could have chosen, but I have no regrets.
Next, it was time to properly explore the high street where the bus had dropped us off. It’s located just behind the promenade, and while it wasn’t quite as lively as the beach itself, there were still numerous people wandering about – and importantly, plenty of shops open as well.
One of the standout discoveries was The Portobello Bookshop, a charming independent bookseller packed with novels, cookery books and much more. Bright, welcoming and so comfortable, it’s the sort of place where one could happily lose several hours without getting bored.
The Portobello Bookshop is a must-visit (Image: Nicola Roy)
The shop also hosts special events, including author Q+A’s, making it worthwhile to check their schedule ahead of any planned visit.
Cove is another essential stop for gift shop lovers. Packed to the brim with treasures ranging from Jellycat toys to candles and shampoo bars, alongside lovely cards and tempting chocolate bars.
While Portobello’s high street may be small, it’s still one of the most appealing around. Many more dining spots, pubs and even an Aldi supermarket ensure visitors won’t find themselves short of choices.
There are so many cute places to grab a coffee along the seafront (Image: Nicola Roy)
One attraction we sadly missed out on, which I really want to visit, is the swim centre. Tucked away in Portobello lies an authentic Victorian Turkish bath – just one of 11 in the UK – alongside gym facilities and a fitness studio, making it a priority for future visits.
For those yet to visit Portobello, it’s an amazing destination for a weekend escape – especially now that autumn has arrived. Its convenient proximity to bustling Edinburgh is ideal for anyone needing a break from city life while enjoying excellent food, drink and coastal relaxation.
